« 99% Invisible

Pockets: Articles of Interest #3

2018-10-02 | 🔗

Womenswear is littered with fake pockets that don’t open, or shallow pockets that can hardly hold more than a paperclip. If women's clothes have pockets at all, they are often and smaller and just fit less than men’s pockets do. And when we talk about pockets, we are talking about who has access to the tools they need. Who can walk through the world comfortably and securely.

Articles of Interest is a show about what we wear; a six-part series within 99% Invisible, looking at clothing. It is produced and hosted by Avery Trufelman. Episodes will be released on Tuesdays and Fridays from September 25th through October 12th.

Pockets: Articles of Interest #3

This is an unofficial transcript meant for reference. Accuracy is not guaranteed.
I had never worn addressed before. I'm sure it was like slightly graceless s like all the things I did at the time seem to have been. I met peers and our very first week in college. It must have been day one or do it was really early. We went to a super pc, liberal arts school, and so our freshmen mixer was across dressing dance with just such an outdated term. Now, but whatever that's, what it was called, I think only told us was you should wear clothes of the opposite gender. They probably set it in a way that slightly more, you know, literate in the differences between gender and biological sex than what I just said. This strange way to make first impressions on each other, not because we were scared of wearing dresses, are backward. Baseball caps or whatever we were that night. It was because for many of us, with borrow clothes from the other people in our hall, who was weirdly, intimate peers and I complete strangers. Swapped outfits
you're tall and I'm tall, and I think that you're, probably the only person in the hall of Fame at the building whose clothes would it fit me. I remember I learned peers a pink swirly pattern, Many dressed from the sixties that I had bought from the thrift store, and I had no idea if he would take care of it or even return it, but peers tried it on. It looked grave and he went to check himself out in the bathroom down the hall and here's what happened. Next, I immediately like myself out of my room like oh no, my he's my room because I d never put them the dress and no pockets peers. It's brand new roommate, let him back in, but then he went to sleep so peers wanted to make sure he didn't make that mistake again. He couldn't loses keys at the party. We all ended up in the big dance hall, really loud music and it was like unbearably had all the ladys eyebrow pencil moustaches were running onto their teeth with sweat and things like tat and I
if I just clutched my keys in my hand and thought about a really hard all night, which sounds crazy. Articles of interest a show about what we were then, so maybe the ideas about quota can attach ideas about class, an idea to a piece of cloth. Ok, I met him any fulcrum, wear clothes, but if you ain't got the arbitrary started carried off man you're. Just a closed bulls women's, where is littered with thick pockets that don't open or shallow pockets, I could hardly hold a paperclip if there are pockets at all, they are just smaller and they fit less than men's. Pockets do, and you don't have to take my word for it We are going to the police supply store. I want to find an example of a uniform that had pockets and compared those made for men in those four women. This is the shop that provides the uniforms for the Oakland police.
And when I asked the storm manager, if I can look at the men's and women's uniforms. This is what he told me I'm ready for this. The women were really because of pockets. Are too small. We really that's your eye, but there is a women's pay me, but I'm curious well, I've got traditionally they use the men's because the pockets are bigger than they can put things item where the women our smaller, which I can show you yeah, that's fascinating. Now you have something to blog I'll, give you something a blog about Man's great evolutionary advantage is the creation of tools. Problem is we're not marsupials? We need to carry them somehow and this idea of who has access to the tools they need. Who can walk through the world. Comfortable
and securely. This is what we are talking about when we talk about pockets. Packets speak to this question, preparedness and your ability to move in public and to be confident. It's me very difficult to get around if you dont have what you need, and it's about. I think mobility and movement and public HANS Karlsson, There is at the Rhode, island school design where she teaches classes in material, culture, fashion, history and fashioned theory, and she is working on a book about pockets if the form of question for me as what is it, what difference does it make, but what's the difference in their pocket and a bag? And I think the key difference is at the pocket is internal and its secret. A bag can be stolen bag can be lost and then that's it. You don't have your things anymore with a pocket inside. You don't have to think about it. You forget about it, but you still have stuff in there. It is seen
as this territory of your own that connects you to the objects you carry. Those objects become part of you case in Point Thomas Jefferson, Jefferson and was called a walking calculator for all the miniature tools and devices he Buried managers, scales, drawing instruments, a thermometer, surveying compass, the level a globe, and he was able to join down his observations from his daily wanderings historically me and have been the ones with these tools for public life on their person at all times in honey, Carlson's research. She found a lot of accounts.
Women complaining about this one woman noted that her son was better equipped than she or her daughter, and she concludes that a boy's pockets are his certificate of empire all through life. He will carry the sceptre of dominion by the right of his pockets. I mean that as its goal, eight language- I loved- I mean it's playful, it's funny, but there's some seriousness here about what later costume historians call real social handicap. Pockets are just a perfect metaphor for privilege, not only because they are so easily taken for granted by the people who have them, but also because, like the categories of race and gender themselves, pocket disparity is a construct. Its made up,
there's no reason for women's pockets to be so small back in the eighteenth century. Women's pockets were quite large. He could hold quite a lot in them and their accounts of women putting food in it. Tiktok later David have writing tools. Maybe a small diary sewing implements. They could carry quite alot, especially if you had to this is Clarissa Scare, some Clarissa scare up. I am here Is he a curator of custom in textiles at the LOS Angeles, Kenny Museum of ART and where we know we are in a storage area at the Museum fire Department? And so we have everything laid out on a table currently covered with tissue, but I will reveal them one at a time
as the larger picture on the radio, but indulge me for a second pockets used to be a completely separate garment. There are really more like pouches pockets being suspended from the waste. Has a really long. History actually started for both men and women in the medieval
and they were suspended from their waste over their clothes and then, in some time, in the late seventeenth century men started having closed made, would pockets were incorporated? There were in their coats, their waistcoats and in their breaches, and women's pockets remains separate from the rest of clothing, o Connell. I got Bernie pop known and I think I think, of the pockets on the inside of your genes rate. Those teardrops shaped pouches. There were kind of like that, but they were just on their own like separate from pants and they were attached to a string, and these will be hide around the ways and in some cases these pouches a really big like the length of your forearm and these detachable pockets were then worn under women. Stresses so even though love old dresses look like they have pockets, they really just have cut slits in them. Women had slits made in the petticoats and dresses and they could access their pockets by going through those. This lets you could reach through your dress, to get to you,
Detachable pocket pouches does not make sense for one. I would like to see them yes, so I thought we would kind of start with a more simpler ones and then can go into the more complicated ones because they were really functional, but also they were an opportunity. Fire splendor, I'm actually just he cut to the complicated expensive fancy pockets because They are indeed very splendid. Oh our cities are very, very finely embroidered. This one is a silk pocket and its lightly quilted, and then it is covered with his beautiful floor. All change direction Mary. So these are all tiny, tiny little chain stitches. Oh my god. It's really fine and there's a pair of them that match, and this is something that she just or an only she and the woman who helped her get dress and perhaps, however, saw Polly
we're almost like lingerie, especially the beautiful expensive ones, the pockets for this intimate thing close to the body holding your most precious items safe under the layers of your joy, enormous Buffy, dress and then came the french revolution. Evolution happen, which in many ways a revolution against access, these dresses that were made with voluminous silk skirts or no longer fashion, following what was fashionable were muslin dress. Is that clung to the body? So when you get eighteen hundred and that empire style, where the waste is pretty much gone, now think of Jane Austen Movies, you have the alumni, silhouette a silhouette like a straight greek column and some he's. Columnar dresses have slits for packets, but a lot of them are to body hugging. To accommodate extra bulge, there's no space for pockets, and so suddenly women begin to carry little purses and there's lots of
but a cool about women having to lose their pockets and having to carry these silly bags and at the time they called him reticules, because they were so small that, like ridiculous, ridiculous reticules were key needs. You need a tiny little draw string, pouches, elaborately, beaded and decorated. They held maybe a few coins and some keys, but, like that's Ed and you could hang the loops of the draw string around your rest, which, Another reason why it was considered ridiculous. You have to remain to carry out its easy to lose. People can steal it. That's the formal difference, but that's kind of price you pay for a fashion. The little bags were in style enemy. You can see why, if you look at them they're beautiful
that very fancy. Beautiful things shall shape to native silken, gorgeous things that could be seen, then not particularly capacious. This is dress historian, Barber Berman, the reticule becomes a kind of temporary fashion, Easter thing, and so you get journalists writing in the first and second decade of the nineteenth century, about pocketed costs and anti pocket the fashion press made, pocket seem like they were for housewives for women who needed to log around sewing kits and bits of food. They were saving for later Anti pocket. Is we're going out, dancing and gambling? They have these peaceful little vegetables and much more fashionable. They don't need to carry keys and Bible loosen stacks pins, all these useful things in their pockets because they don't do they have that kind of life they much more out about, and so you have, the practised, anti populist bait strung along
to gain readership. I suppose, in the nineteenth century fashion magazines were saying it was a liberating thing for women not to have pockets to be free from tasks reticules, which hardly help. Anything we're kind of like long nails that don't let you use your hands as much or stiletto heels that dont, let you walk as far there's that luxury in not moving too much or doing too much, and just looking really good and its always been an ongoing debate. If that is empowering or not, but it's not like the ridicule completely killed the tie on pocket, they were still around a woman, could perfectly well half a pair of pockets and also read kills when she wanted to be sure they coexist, and this kind of pocket carry out lives threat to kill. You find him in use in the seventeenth century, going right
it is twenty century. So why? Why don't we have these anymore? If it wasn't that I love you. I search me. I'm yours, if you can come up with a good answer, is very difficult to pinpoint it they fate from use. They become old, Patient move dresses start have integrated pockets, but they are often very small and not always, but they are very small and very difficult. Access, the women's, where that had integrated pockets, tended to be feminist versions of men's, where made by men and made by tailors, not dressmakers and out of habits as tailors whipping putting in proper. It didn't pocket, said, speak like men's pocket, so there, because we using male tat, tearing techniques, basically even out that had an insect pocket. It was a uselessly proportioned version of a man's pattern. The pocket is seen to A monopoly of the male sex. Eventually, its pockets and trousers are one and as women's fashions change, pockets can be
asked and as many fashions change, pockets can be gained and they were again and again and again, pockets were getting added. Added an added over the course of decades and by the early twentieth century, This is getting ridiculous. Copious amounts of pockets. I can't even like you have your ticket pocket for the train. You have your point. Parquet watch pocket breast pocket. Then you have all the pocket. Senor waistcoat and then in your trousers, it's really interesting and women have one purse. Both gendered extremes were starting to get terrible because pockets had proliferated, they had become completely worthless. You you couldn't find, and
Thank you. Stop on the street, yet pat yourself down to remember where you left your while the average man of nineteen forty four had twenty four pockets way too many, at least according to Bernard Rogalski. He was kind of enraged by the way that pockets kept serve. Popping up. Bernard Rogalski was an architect and modernist architect and modern, as for really into sleek simple buildings that were absolutely function, with no access e with this modernist who wanted to make clothing perfectly rational, and he found it ironic that all his fellow rational modernist market, we're all wearing suits. He wanted to. I think, shake up this confidence that we have about the suit and suggest- and I know it is not modern in any way it has all sorts of old ideas and beliefs, and this pocket that was once functional is now no longer functional, because we have so many and diverse
point- God love him. Rudolf ski puts on an exhibit at the New York Museum of Modern ART in nineteen, forty four and it was called our clothes modern question mark our clothes. Modern was the question tat. I was now central peace and redundancies. Moma exhibit was this big multi layered infographic chart and look like an x ray of a man's three suit. We have color coded the pockets in his shirt and his vest and his coat and overcoat, and you see this wonderful, chaotic overlay of twenty four pockets. The average suit had twenty four pockets and seventy buttons Rogalski was really passionate about how completely silly and redundant this was
the guy is a wonderful, not ball, but Rogalski was really onto something because he wasn't only about abolishing suits. He thought that at the root of this insane pocket conundrum was a much larger problem, which is about generally, what we consider clause thing to be holding the hanging on hairs to him. Look like people's sort of dead skins. Johnny. You wanted to be able to show that we are, you could travel to a friends house and they would have close for you, because clothing wouldn't be individual to the body and universal size for secluding, unisex, clothing. Universal clothing according to Rogalski would be more like a toga or apparel that embraced. The nature of cloth itself, something that would drape and move. Naturally, you know he hated the idea that, through close, we could show ideas about status and
gender that were unfair. He hated the expanse the waste, and so he wanted this. You know really simple cloth and, of course, the images that he showed his ideas for this new utopian future are very simple. They have no pockets a world with no pockets at all and no bags. You might know the perfect we're when you arrive there by its pocket listing. My college fund appears got really into
reaching and reading about pockets? Long after his debacle with my dress, there's this whole strain of thought which suggest that if the world were perfect with society were perfect, we lived in a utopia of some kind where you'd have to worry about your physical safety net. To worry about somebody robbing your house, you wouldn't need pockets in order to carry money in order to carry keys, and certainly in the course of time we have come to hold fewer and fewer things in our pockets. All those little devices that Jefferson's are contained in a single fund that we carry externally on our body and the pocket really is this sort of knowledge envelope this compartment, but the phone stays adjacent to us, removed encased in a bag or pocket and tech companies have tried to sell us unbearable.
An apple watches and Google glasses, which would take your tools out of your pocket entirely and maybe bring us a step closer to that pocket less utopia, but these products having taken off in the way they were supposed to wearable, were foreseen a long time ago, and we still feel that anxious about their use. I think there is still too much doubt at the moment about whether that utopia work, and perhaps one day we will have all of our tools implanted in our skull or embedded on an accessory, which everyone will be able to access in the same way and then when we get their pockets will seem just as ancient as Rogalski thought them to be already. It seems. Oh antiquated, that closer needlessly gendered in the way they are because we should all have access to the tools we need, or at least a place, to put our hands palm piece of pay.
MR there's, poetry painted on the way, art of interest is made by myself every gentlemen with infant Katy, mingle and Joe Rosenberg music by Re Royal intro. An outer themes by Sesame Ashworth fact checked by Graham Haisha especially if you set and Roman Mars, is the deep pockets of this whole series. Special thanks to pierce Golly for telling me about this topic in his podcast cell, door as well as to Delaney Hall, Emmett Fitzgerald, Vivien, Leigh, Kirk, Kolstad, real and the whole. Ninety nine php support
We often dont think of winter as a tolerable, growth or creation. But if you think about it, it's the perfect time to greet your own website gives her cooped up your thinking about being productive and now square space can help you do it. Whiskers Bates can take your cool ideas. You ve creative content, your services, goods and you can turn them into a beautiful website in just a few clicks. Does it because there is the
Templates created by world class designers, and then you have the ability to customize the look and feel in the different settings for your own needs. For example, my side, roman mars dot com and made with square space. The landing page features a close up me talking to a microphone asthma, my very handsome beard, but if I should ever shave it, I dont have to wait for my web guy to change the photo. I can do it myself and maybe the next vote. I will feature my soulful eyes on one of the pages. I've also picked out some my favorite episodes of ninety nine percent of visible to share and the audio is convening
we in bed it even on mobile? Try yourself could scarce based outcomes, thus invisible for a free trial, and when you re the launch easy offer code invisible to save ten percent off your first purchase of a website or domain, your local police probably receive a hundred calls a night from broker, alarms and majority the time they have no idea of their false alarms or if they are real, it could be a crime or it could be. You going downstairs for a midnight snack and setting off the motions answer, but simply safe home security is different if there's a break in simply save as real video to tell please whether there is an actual crime and then they have the evidence to back it up, and they can tell them where the intruder is an what they're doing, and that means please dispatch up to three hundred.
He percent faster than for other burglar alarms. You can set it up yourself with no tools needed or they can do it for you and has only fifty cents. A day would know contracts visit, simply safety coms. Last nine nine you get free shipping in a sixty day risk free trial. You got another lose go now and be sure to go to simply say that complex nine nine. So they know that our show is at you that simply saved outcome. Slash nine nine. Ninety nine percent invisible supported by better help online counselling, I'm sure you like me, no alot of people on cancelling or are in need of counselling or maybe even counselling yourself and when the biggest challenges is
I am not being able to carve out even an hour a week to deal with challenges like stress sleep, grief and relationships with better help. You can connect privately with a councillor through phone and video horse or even text in Chad. Better help offers licence councillors who specialise in issues including depression or anxiety, get help on your own time. Your own pace and at an affordable rate. Ninety nine percent, invisible listeners we'll get ten percent of their first month with discount code, invisible, that's better help, dot com, slash invisible! Why not get help better help, dot com, slash invisible. The fake pockets on women's, where are proof that fashion always takes useful things and makes them ridiculous. Fashionable dress prefers the assertion of utility to utility itself like how plaid
I wonder style once it couldn't be worn in Scotland anymore or how high heels developed from writing shoes, but became trendy once we took them off horseback. Who was it Oh am Highlander notes that fashion instantly mocks sensible inventions and clothing subjecting them to on functioning usage as soon as they appear and that's absolutely true of pockets swimming. You can think of the wonderful ornate suits of the macaroni. Like when Yankee Doodle sticks a feather in his hand. He thinks that makes him one these dandy macaroni? Who were these british youth in the seven. In seventies and eighties, these young men with big, elaborate hairdos, and these tight little coats and their code we're so narrow and form fitting that, once again name of fashion their front pocket speak useless and said now they have this packet that makes no sense and so tailors invented. What is the breast pocket? Put it inside the code at the breast
clothing is always shifting in and out of, practicality, and sometimes just because something is you, First doesnt mean its meaningless, like with a pocket, even if it can't hold much. Sometimes it matters that its there, and sometimes it matters exactly how its placed your next article that test. Is the hawaiian shirt radio do.
Transcript generated on 2020-02-14.