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Punk Style: Articles of Interest #6

2018-10-12 | 🔗

There is this myth that it’s frivolous or unproductive to care about how you look. Clothing and fashion get trivialized a lot. But think about who, culturally, gets associated with clothing and fashion: young people, women, queers, and people of color. Groups of people who historically haven’t had a voice, have expressed themselves on their bodies. Through their style, their hair, their tattoos, their piercings, and what they wear.

Articles of Interest is a show about what we wear; a six-part series within 99% Invisible, looking at clothing. It is produced and hosted by Avery Trufelman. Episodes will be released on Tuesdays and Fridays from September 25th through October 12th.

Punk Style: Articles of Interest #6

This is an unofficial transcript meant for reference. Accuracy is not guaranteed.
Just a warning. This episode contains mature language. You remember first day I got a college. I I was in line at some bakery in the town and the woman pull me out. So I just wanna talk to you because. I'm a christian woman. And I worry about people like you in your relationship with Satan's man us roman Mars. What are you wearing that day? I was, I am. I think it was I submit a band, his shirt and a final or something and there's nothing like band T shirt, one particular shirt. So have you met me from the age of fifth fourteen ten nineteen, I was probably wearing this work whose gratuities heard that, the time I start wearing it you know went from basically
white to gray to almost click clear here? but to keep it altogether. I put: will safety pence across the top to keep it to give an altogether. So is that, because these are either for doing that. No, so I remember in high school there There is very little punk presence, you call a skater if you wore closer listened the bans I listen to this list. The sun, so weird was quizzical. Look in your face is It is but in central Ohio in late eightys. There. As a concept of what I like hard core punk was There was no you I would call a skater and rocks were thrown at me, though I never meant escape for four people there. Looks you oh shit, yeah. This is different
skaters were hated by everybody. So why bother to stand out, especially if people I like actively throwing rocks at you like? Why bother yeah, it's weird, because I don't know, I don't know why we have that find all the time, but I I had to- No, articles of interest, a show about what they were, and so maybe the ideas about quotas cannot touch ideas about class and I do hope to a piece of cloth. I met any fulcrum, wear clothes, but if you are in the attitude and started carried off man you're just a closed There's this myth that frivolous or unproductive to care about how you look clothing and fashion get trivialized a lot but think about who culturally
gets associated with clothing and fashion young people, women, queers and people of color groups of people. Historically haven't been listened to have expressed themselves on their bodies through their style, their hair, their tattoos, their piercing and what they, where you gotta understand black working class kid. That's all the only way we had to express ourselves or through the music we listen to and the clothes we war. This is done, lets a legendary dj and film maker and creator of the documentary punk attitude. I've always engage with the look because you're, not in black culture. We, been forced to express ourselves in a very punk rock way in what is a very wide world, we ve only been left the fringes to operate within to understand. So that's forced us to do with things like come up with Reggae for instance, which is actually formed by a lack of technology, not because you ve got it in the minutes, was a definition of punk hip, hop to turn tabled a microphone
I mean if that ain't, a form of black punk wrong. What is paragraph in the classic sense and the way it sounds in the way it looks emerged from a place of disenchantment and dissolution. I already was pretty alienated: black, but by the MID Seventys, is interesting. As aside, it managed to alienate own why you were talking special, equally London, society, you're going times are a little bit. Seventy times are tough social price. Economic political, gone, fine job accommodation has a problem, of course, is terrific and financial means to a three day weeks very concerned about employment with no way now our constant strikes and massive unemployment. We do not have sufficient houses, jobs in schools round table, let alone emigrant far too many immigrants in this country lies in the national front without going through the local anymore that pull up with noise a foreigner, and we don't like
and you know just felt like italy- was constantly fucking great. I mean I was I had a soundtrack to ease my pain. I had the reggae that my wife, it's not so lucky. Now there are a lot of different opinions as to where punk music came from and what its roots and influences were. And whether it started in Detroit or New York or whatever its widely agreed, that punk music came from somewhere in the United States. Everyone, the exact same, that invented pump rubbish, they were smart enough to give the look of punk started in London. It wasn't invented here they just kidding style, which is not to be snifter, because that music and Tal combinations, the deadly combination and the love of punk additional seventies british punkahs. So I think,
the Green Mohawk, the safety pins leather jacket, the plaid many skirt and look that iconic contact that specific. It doesn't happen by accident. Someone designed it are you a ban on four thirty kings Road in London, there is a little shop and looks like a little shack. Its tiny Don let's remembers the first time he went in there I found myself. Growing up and down the kings. Road Chelsea, which, back in the day in the early seventys, which was like the major fashion high street in the UK in London, and I wandered into the store colder. I was either go too fast, live too young to die Larry Rock Creek Duquette, changing the name of the store I walked into what was kind of enlightened cave of Sub Culture and Malcolm is there and
He was there Vivian Westward and Malcolm Mclaren. The couple that own the shop in the seventies they had started out, selling records and then moved in the clothing. But I struck of our relationship with these guys and it was Only one of the most foot to at its meetings I've ever had Vivian. So it was in her early thirties, a primary school teacher and mother of two so all the clothes in her living room. She had no formal training, but had grown up, sewing her own clothes out of necessity, Malcolm Clare. Was in his mid twenties and lived in this kind of work. All the videos. The counter cultural riots in sixty eight parries, Grosvenor Square, you know can't stay. All that's to those of the situation she s movement in frosty stuff. I will never forget about. The situation were really important to Vivian, unwelcome as early as the nineteen fifties situation is declared that artists and thing
or morally obligated to break down the divide between art and life defuse art with everyday existence, so there are happy cleaved, away ether, eyes and put into galleries and academies and the way to do this. The situation is said to fuse art and life is for artists and activists to be provocateurs. To create dramatic, outlandish interruptions and every day to expose The absurdity of the status quo, art and protest were to be honoured. Treats with no barriers for everyone in their faces whether they wanted it or not? There. The whole idea of being subversive thinking out of the box bearing punk, but the look of punk still wasn't quite born yet in their pursuit of testing limits of merging art and life, Vivian westward and knock em Mclaren, or constantly change
during the shop and the sale of clothing sold within it. They close it down Rename mission reopen it again as knowledge. There are closing the stores down because they were failures. They were changing the face of four thirty kings road because they wanted to maximum term got bored and he wanted to move on and set a vision. This is clear: Wilcox senior curator at the Victorian Albert Museum, by the way, Vivian westward herself declined to be a part of the story, but Clare Wilcox has interviewed what would a curated, an incredible exhibit of the many phases of her work is decided, was out running their Odeon says, they're, always one step they never rested on their laurels. They kept moving changing gathering momentum, they were kind of like anthropologists, they get really intriguing by certain subculture and they build the shopper. Found it for thirty kings. Road had an innovation where it sold, dandy, rocker clothes, another making, more leather, biker inspired stuff and then in nineteen. Seventy, four Vivian Malcolm
earn for thirty kings, rode into a shop called sex. It was code. Sacks one word all caps. What vision set about being interested in clothing used in the sex industry, the latex, the Robber was it, she appreciated it for a strange kind of beauty. The sign just said: sex in big, pink plush others. The clothes inside were leather and rubber and covered its straps. Skintight an androgynous and she said that you had a that makes tone tell coming to the shop when it's called sex range from a she's heard, people the perverse and trust in these types of garments and then cuts off the street just wanting to be fashionable. So it was sort of hybrid moment, Malcolm and Vivian knew how to shock No one had stuff like there's snow the mountain tops and some other tee shirts working,
utterly died, trying to pull a repetition once seriously has not a joke. I didn't put the tell them a thing on. Nobody told me about that shit and nearly died with this thing wrapped around my neck, trying to get it off on. New York, Malcolm and Vivian, discovered the burgeoning american panties vaccine, which was blooming and interesting new ways, and so On his return to London, Malcolm decided that he would like to manage a ban, of his very own, key ingredient gathered some kids who worked at and hung out around four thirty kings. Road inform them into a group named the sex pistols, but it's not like the sex vessels are just like a clever routes to sell clothes were no army, listen that it was a fortuitous combination, for those things to work together, but that wasn't anything we're diminutive style of music in these countries dislike it so important, so that you know that
I think that some lives any shame in that Malcolm and Vivian wrote some of the lyrics for the sex vessels which were about you know and our key in the UK and bad nothing. The queen, it was, Your mother's rock and roll. It was the anti banned, the anti music built to shock kind of her politics, but also kind of just to shock. People like a situation is happening, although maybe that's getting welcome too much credit. I don't know how planet twice Malcolm, wanted to create Malcolm World WAR is end game was. I have no fucking idea. I think I don't like Malcolm did go on, as you did make up a large ship ass. He went along a lot of things, that kind of, and you having chaos. He pretended that your castrated. Let's ok, you know, what would you call this new movement demanded a new look, a new store, one nineteen. Seventy seven, four thirty kings road was reincarnated again. This time it was called sedition. Areas
and this is the adoration of the store in which punk fashion would truly emerge. In a way to shriek was a line in the sand, because here you had the chance merging of music and fashion. On two May loves. The chapters of four thirty kings wrote all compounded on each other. Elements of edwardian, dandy and rocker and biker and sex worker all combined and catalyzed, but hard fast, music and political imagery, Union chat? with save two pins. This style icon, Michael cost. If a long time neighbour of four thirty kings, rode over the years Michael and his wife are about so much He westward close. Their collection was acquired by the Torreon Albert Museums, the trousers, in this respect. Why Belloo Little Bit hipster almost Michael, showing me up-
of his old bondage trousers, which look like a strait jacket. Frere legs, their loaded down. With the birds in chains and straps hanging off them, and there is even a strap that ties your knees together, Michael assures me was less limiting than you'd think the legs are connected. Yadda yadda, this phase out runs through. It was absolutely no bother to war didn't altering it couldn't do with. With your niece tied together, these bondage causes of Michael's were black, but there were versions and plaid and some had killed you. Click on the front and back or little towels and other things that would hang off them. The last time I had a conversation with Bob Marley An argument about the burgundy trousers tat I was wearing what what did he say about that they didn't Let me talk, they don't like mountaineer trousers. Libyans closed turned people into strange sculptures. She played with the human form binding the legs together, extending sleeves down
floored pushing the body and a new angles over things, resort to cut differently with one sleeve island within coal to one side and so to pull the fabric different ways: it was all rob, fabulous, assert, sartorial amazement. It was It was well crafted not cheap. There. Wasn't she wasn't cheap closed when not cheap, in other words, fuck and expensive. But but thought I was closes are without a doubt those first punk clothes, weren't, dirty grungy, sloppy. They were fabulous and strange amid favour. Vivian's closes, they would closes arms. You gotta understand vision has always taken great pride in crafting a close, very carefully. You get this extraordinary sort of marriage, craft and care, and in a downright outrageous ness, so outrageous that
shop started the copy, Vivian's designs, lots of people copied there's looks once the junior was out of the bottle, then told kings. Selling variations upon the same Lowe's to go with a bungalow. You know you got to and and How is it you know, lots of ephemeral, to cite the lives of people a chance to have a business. Punk was easy to rip off, Michael, showed me some imitation bondage trousers that used to belong to his wife. They were made I another shop called boy, visual properties, boy appropriate all Vivian's things than did the much cheaper, cheaper fabrics still further down the kings. Rodya reach risk conduct because it gave more people a chance to wear the clouds, various hates boy. Oh maybe I should set my shop off.
I have to do the same, but the other side of the coin is that individuals can imitate. These looks very Billy as well and sort of elaborate on them today bandages, and God knows what Vivian had created a style lexicon that anyone can play around laboratory chains saved prim. There was a very do it yourself ethic. I mean you go into your own wardrobe right now and rip stuff up and put it back together and make it possible and that the I find that Vivian love. It gave a chance. Kids with no money to develop a do. It yourself. Version of the libyan westward after didn't have any training is a seamstress. She just figured out how to do these things, so anyone could and should follow our lead. It was part of this shot movement of rebellion that these
This could be adopted in customized and adopted by anybody. Wherever you came from her rich or poor, you all have a I would have a sexual. You could take these clothes on and perhaps you might save up to buy a pair of bondage. Trousers bet, you'd customize, your n t shirt, punk became grassroots, as Vivian herself has said. It wasn't invented for streets, it was the other way around. It turned into a movement, so I think, can away is what sort of joyful explosion taken possession of your own identity and before the internet. This look was cross pollinated, between New York and London by touring. Bans like this pistols and the hormones, and so there started city this back and forth dialogue a little bed. Between the two scenes, but they were visually really different. Monica scar an historian and author of the book, punk style says the New York Look was based and functionality with Europe being g.
His tee shirts, using thief defence for functional purposes, but the London look thanks to Vivian Westward was rooted in art, aesthetic bans toured and cultures mix spheres. Influence spread across the U S and then it would go around the country and around the globe other scenes would come fruition and take on their own bat of influence depends bans on the weather and the local culture, punk became reinterpreted. Whether at San Diego others, to see whether to Troy, London York, Minneapolis had large series of bans and style leaders and as those individuals and their stuff, whether it's it's them personally travelling around or as their seem makes it around or their music down gets to the next place. The style goes with how Monica Scar said their style went with them, not their fashion. This goes Way beyond Parker Subculture,
but especially in the United States Fashion, as us seated with entire groups of people often relegated secondary women, queers people of color and youth fast, is the realm of the historically powerless, and so people don't want to talk about things associated with them, but they do this huge awareness of style and how style is style, according to sociologist. Michael break is a combination of three elements. Image image So what are we looking at demeanor attitude when were wearing and this concept called org. Our data, this french concept of slang. He greatly, ranging secret coding kind of like jargon, especial words or phrases that only insiders and a group would know altogether. It's that environment
so being able to have image. Demeanor and Argo with authenticity is true, punk style, in other words its part of what makes you authentic or oppose her. If you have the right style in four punks. It was the ceaseless hunt to sniff out true punk style. It was a lot of looking for little clues hints of authenticity, China who is on your side and who is a sell out. It was constant and it was exhausted that only shortly after sedition opened and the late seventies, Vivian westward herself got tired of it. In hindsight, she said I got tired of looking at clothes from this point of view of rebellion. I found it exhausting after a while I wasn't sure if I was right. I am sure that if there is such a thing as the anti establishment, it feeds the estate.
Cement and if you give something a label them at all, it can be in the whole thing about Punkahs it ever evolving and for some people I got stuck on the early definition. It has its about mohawks, eight been the jacket, no man like one screaming? Shout the got you through the door, you weren't How to get stop? Where are you on this latter you're smart, you keep climbing, in the eighties Alot of London, punks kept climbing members of punk bans peeled off to learn Do you actually play their instruments and experiment with, like synthesizers uninteresting postponed his old zombie kind of honest about what they really light and Vivian westward taught herself how to tailor like gave herself a real formal training so she embarked on this mission to self educate yourself through, but can't seventeenth, eighteen, twenty cent, redress
This is not the I why these are not garments that anyone could copy subsequent lines of Vivian's played with court the tree ball gown suits evening clothes. Using nicer materials and toying with elements of history and even nostalgia stuff that was not punk. Closing those two dimensional He lay flat. However, when she learns taylor- and this is a very difficult process that she told herself her clothes become more more three dimensional. As her use of authority and establishment became multi dimensional. Her garments gained dimension as well. You see development of high school running alongside the throat of her interest history and also not rejection of pound, because I think it would always be part of Heaven
moving on, from always being on the defence always being involved in some kind of conflict, cool sartorial conflict with the world. The that store for thirty kings road. It still belongs to westward ever since nineteen eighty, it's been called and it has a giant clock on the front with its arms. Spinning. Back and if you go there today, it's not a band of misfits that hang out there anymore, but there are a lot of japanese tourists who come to pilgrimage. Vivian. Westward is one of the most famous clothing designers in the world. Now I mean she's. Huge. He doesn't have the time to speak. To me for this podcast, but
She is the reason why I wanted to talk about clothing because in two thousand nine I heard her This thing to the New York Times and I haven't been able to stop thinking about it, since the paradox is that people think which, if they were something simple, a non saying that somehow they themselves will emerge all the more stunning beautiful from it, it's not true, it might be to know I have not even true of Christie. Turning to him you know! No, no. I don't want to see Christie challenge in a t, shirt and genes. She can why not if you're born, you know somebody a freak of beauty why not you know, look like a goddess. Why not. I think everyone knows that feeling when you're dressed in it.
That you really like and you look good and you feel good, that is an essential power of clothing. Aside from You know covering your body or keeping you warm. It has the power to give you confidence why roman dresses up when he goes to do a life performance. Lots of options and ties and have lots of options and pocket, squares and stuff like that, and that I have fun with that too. The form and actually show respect that. I care about these things to an audience: bats, signals to me and also I think I look good and the thing punk did was pushed the boundaries of what looks good. It's not about looking perfect or clean or rich it incorporated people of all ages and bodies and backgrounds and ideas, and gave them that confidence is pushed our ideas of beauty.
And Professor Monica Squire knows this first hand, beauty standards were pushed and pushed and pushed. I was fired from a record store, a record store. As a use for having an ivory appears thing, and now a professor and curator vice president of the national society of my profession, and I have and really this is the power of what fashion designers can do something that appears still, Andrews, scary or expensive at first can trickled down through the cycle of trends in maybe in time, come to x, band notions of what's acceptable, so that more people can feel comfortable expressing their own style. Their own cocktail of image, demeanor and Argo. However, it manifests and this myth that its frivolous or adaptive to care about how you look or what you, where is completely bunk, do not have to think about how you present or to us
whom that you can somehow dress in a way that is neutral or not, saying that is a massive massive privilege, whether we like it or not. We are all speaking with our clothes and we might as well get a good hard think about what we want to say. The piece of paper words yesterday There's a painted on the things we story,
like It is true.
Articles of interest is made by myself every coupled with editing containing mingle and Joe risen music by Rebecca Redman, Shannon Druggie agenda marks the might of Sacho of the band sore the theme zones. Articles of interest are Sammy Ashworth back, checked by Graham Nature, makes special, refuse F and roman Mars is the enmity of this whole series. So, thanks to sign it, Santo, Ella, branding forming an online library, Bloomsbury fashioned central banks is El to Marian Mccune, Delaney Hall, Vivian Lee Sanrio, Kirkwall Stead and the whole ninety nine php
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I am not being able to carve out even an hour week to deal with challenges like stress sleep, grief and relationships with better help. You can connect privately with a councillor through phone and video horse or even text in Chad. Better help offers licence councillors who specialise in issues including depression or anxiety, get help on your own time. Your own pace and at an affordable rate. Ninety nine percent, invisible listeners will get ten percent off their first month with discount code, invisible, that's better help, dot, com, slash invisible! Why not get help better help, dot com, slash invisible. The history of clothing is not a linear one, it's circles, around and around on itself style. Those weave in an out through the decades, each time,
incarnates in new materials with new associations, the history of clothing, history of subversion, whether its bringing bondage where into the light of day or genes into the workplace or pockets into women's, where it's a dynamic that puts our body, in conversation with all the many many political, societal and economic forces that have determined the fashions before us, as the cycle of trends goes around and around and around, and That's it. That concludes articles of interest. Thank you for listening and by the way this gorgeous music box theme that your listening to was composed by the great Sean Rio are. Nineteen. Mph staff composer, and back to regular ninety nine percent invisible programming after this, and all these episodes of be archived on a separate feed. We're thinking Whether or not we want to do a second season of this, so let me know your thoughts, I'm onto
a troublemaker one f and at articles of interests on Instagram up and a final thought we're celebrating this podcast with a big clothing swamp and, if you never been to one of these before its, where a bunch of people gather somewhere and everyone brings their clothes, that they don't want any more and then trade them all up with each other. For free. I find it's the most sustainable and most interesting way to dress, consider throne, having swap of your own some time, because you have to wear clothes anyway, right. Radio do.
Transcript generated on 2020-02-14.