Neil deGrasse Tyson catches the perfect wave with world champion surfer Kelly Slater, comic co-host Chuck Nice, Pulitzer Prize-winning author William Finnegan, oceanographer Travis Schramek, lead engineer at the Kelly Slater Surf Ranch Adam Fincham, and Bill Nye the Science Guy.
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This is an unofficial transcript meant for reference. Accuracy is not guaranteed.
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Welcome, startle your place in the universe where science and pop culture color dartle, begin right now what I needed a grass eyes in your personal life for visas and tonight we're exploring the science surfer featured my interview with all time World champion surfer Kelly Slater,
Let's do this quickly to cover tonight nice reading. Turkey's yes and you also coast of this spin off of start up go play
scientists, sir. Yes! Well, that's what it's where jobs in geeks collide and the geeks don't walk away with concussion it's what's so I don't have much particular expertise and serving sir we brought someone who does and we ve got prize winning
William Finnegan staff, rider at the new Yorker author of the Pulitzer Prize, winning Memoir Barbarian Day. What a great
Circling life so we'll be tapping your perspective tonight as we explore my interview with surfing legend Kelly Slater Kelly's dominated the supporters surfing like his own life is entirely. Is the most championships in the history of the sport eleven
the youngest to win that title at age, twenty eight, the oldest to win that title at eight, thirty, nine, and
he's had a little space connection goin on also really so you know that's the first thing I have to ask about: ok,
so let's check it out to grew up in space coast and in space coasts. Florida.
So do you feel space in you
definitely my mom worked at NASA Nasa Kennedy space Harry
yeah and I'm
was there when Kennedy came the first time revisit. Yes, it was a huge part of our daily lives. I watched the first. I want to see my shuttle. I watched the first twenty four launches in the twenty fifth was the one that exploded about? You mean children challenger here, so I had washed everyone up to that point and I I had flown back from California the night before it at a serve contest and I'd miss schools.
It is called a steady year in Florida, porter problem or the problem with a ring with the, but I was lying in bed.
I heard the show too often I'd seen so many of them. It wasn't even a thing,
from anymore. I mean people fly from around the world to see the things in my life cinema, soil.
Out the window kind of saw going up and lay back down in watch and then I remember the whole House Randall,
like the whole house short like I've, never felt and everything I was weird know about sleep. I woke up
Three hours later, my mom was crying. She said, shall exploded, and you know this
something it so dear to people's hearts and in Florida sits in the culture yeah it's in the culture but yeah how's. It was Superfund time as a kid to see all this,
Spaceboat programme, so any memorable size, teachers or mass teachers are good or bad. I try forget all of them, but I always kind thought mass mattered. Somehow
I was thought of. The wave is an equation, but I got my worst great. Ever and geometry. I haven't I
anything I had never had a sea and then I d in her class like it is pre heart wrenching. For me, as its freshmen back a completely mess with it must have three or four here man, I gotta stop there
late night study, but no, I did well scorn for the most part enjoyed it
I've, never in probably kindergartner first grade and taking gosh. I think I'm a surfer
that's what I like to do most
nice so bill. How big of a sorry Kelly's later in the server world was nickname? Is the king
I mean he's been while we
at the same time, namely the has been the consensus births or from the world for twenty five years show so the world the surfer world you you described in the subtitle surfing life. So what is a surfing life in the surfing world?
well for me: it's a surfing life. I'm pretty typical, really is just an obsessive.
Pursuit of good ways, usually in the competent Franklin, clean, there's a way I clean
then there is the struggle to fit that obsession into of life life not so easy to build. Kelly said, he always thought of a wave as an equation when your surfing do feel some kind of map via the way
he does that's good metaphor. Actually, oh yeah Miller, wave kind of presidents, you
with a question-
whilst guided noted, a lumber surfers mare and everything is a philosophy which way never ends a question
and you have to come up with an answer that
I not lay math rules but at least through the rules of physics
and you can cover than elegant solution in our dazzling. Salute
or you know, of a mess that kind of gets you for me to be or or just get there.
Answer entirely and get thrown on your ass, exactly as they get thrown on your ass solution check? How would you calculate
massive surfing, I'm very largely s within meal, because
as an these scientists here, that's where I have a right there in the square root inner over epic shredding is equal to the absolute magnitude
of totally tubular righteousness. Oh very nice, so the two vertical lines on each side of the absolute magnitude of that you got very good. Thank you yet
I had to make it a real equation, otherwise I would have to suffer Europe. So I'm a non surfer. There's not a word for that. I guess other than Non Haven.
Server other our, but rather our words gone. So I was hard for me to sort of fully rock how writing a wave actually works, and so I asked him to help. Explain the diner
mix of serving to me than stricken up. So tell me more about the mechanics of you in the wave. It seems to me there is it dear. I call it a sweet spot yet where
all the forces work to sustain you in that spot. Can you just talk me through? What's going on in the wave yeah
category or even emotionally. Yeah well spirit
means, whereas things are on its a moving, then you know there have been surfers over the years and not enough there friend,
Timothy Larry or not, but they ve talked about it being like revisiting. The womb
there's some spiritual stuff going on, but you write in like that you're looking for a sweet spot on the wave because away forms it builds, it has a certain speed, has a certain shape. There's a they're, just a balance with gravity
is really what it comes down to my heart. Is it's a fine that sweet spot
in a wave where you're balanced against gravity now well Kelly makes it look easy, but for the rest of us, if it takes a ton of practice and gets a sign of a true champion, what you do you think I could do that and then no you can the outright should truck. Have you ever tried serving at all absolutely
without a really hurts rats. How'd you do. Actually we can just do that right now,
opening up for us to serve? You brought this in absolutely check it out grounds trainer use your own risk is plays its man. I got it just visit this outright and we see ok.
Are you ready to serve amusing that doubt about that? Take a deep into serve their carefully laid down. When you start from the hall of the universe, dinner can be vetoed, naturally boring science and servants. My interview would certainly can't jellies later it's Jaeger
My board is playing surface right, so I think of
anywhere on the wave that my board is out, of course, to curve the waves curve. You have a flat board on a curve surf yeah, so I think of the whole wave as just millions of flat surfaces.
Gonna how picture at my head- and I am always pushing down against that energy, so I did
of gravity and momentum and minors,
You know it going in a certain way
you're, saying that the curved inner surface of the waves is a series of flat surfaces in your finding a flat surface toward your flat born on crack. I'm I'm picturing that flat surface and I'm pushing yes at in a certain way and so there's I almost feel like its track, so that the ultimate thing in surfing is to get a super
two barrel without like a tube, would be like your kind of in the girl in the way right. A barrel is like when you, when you disappear back
joining us help break down some of the science of serving is oceanographer, Travis shrank,
welcome to your doktor candidate gained a phd, the scripts institution of oceanography. You see San Diego, so you, your colleagues, recently came up with an equation for waves. Sweet spot is ever that's cool
one of my colleagues named Nick Pizarro scripts Oceanography actually figured out how the math behind sweet spot works. If we did, we think about those shape in the way of just like Kelly was just riding those big barrels.
The Pekin velocity and the wave itself is actually the lip as projects, but the
can acceleration is the curl the wave just under that lip. That's projecting out from the edge of it
and in that that little area that sweet spot, you can have of losses of four g. So when
he executed the two bride. What kind of physics is going on there,
oh and servers sort of finding that sweet spot. Just like you said your applying forces back and forth, the free of the surfer are applied
and a little bit forward a little bit back to treading injured sway.
Inter weigh up into the way and then that that wave is actually pushing forces back in the board. So
but the most surfboards there two pieces of foam with a wooden stringer down the middle and their communicating the forces balance between them.
If in the search for themselves, and so that that wave
actually driving that board and talking it as such,
where's moving down the line and the surfers thank
getting back and forth with its force. I'd, never curtain, because if, since I don't know what I'm looking at, it just looks like you're standing there.
Push by the wave and what you're saying is the difference in pressure between a back foot and a front foot can actually
help maneuver where they are in the curl of the wave, whose definitely, as you
trying to accelerate your kind of put more pressure on your front foot.
And as you want a sort of slow down, your seems kind of stall and wave and try to wait for the barrel to come over. They'll, put a lot more pressure on the back,
So what happens when
see, surfers board break. Is it just it was made in China or what happened no way.
Really powerful when I use of shark will first you look
the guide to a girl and make sure they're, ok Anwar, hopefully, but
you can look as those as the wave comes down they can. It can act as a clever
just slice aboard briskly, basically right and half that's? Why that that would
shrink specifically in the middle of a word, to give it that rigidity and extra set of forces to communicate the surfers actions into the wave, but they can just snap because of how strongly
so, this kind a barrel shake wave what conditions create that
So typically, when we see barrels were looking at swells that have come from deep, energetic water and then those swells or moving throughout the whole world's oceans and then
look for areas where it goes from deepwater shallow water really quickly and as that,
She comes in the shallow water it'll break very very rapidly, and create barrels,
and so he's typically see these around Ireland systems in coral reefs. Because of that difference, and these were these would be archipelago islands exactly there, just volcanoes that have come up from underneath the ocean, and so they can have a volcanic sloped down right
down to the bottom of the ocean and you'll even Syria's liking. California, a wave called mavericks that the point of sticks out really far and the deeper with cemetery, the actual contours of the ocean aloud,
energy to get directed to a single focal point make very big waves, subdue that's kind of the science of what's going on, but what's it like? What is it feels like to be inside the barrel of away like the womb lucky, our good that far,
It is that is this thing. You work toward a long time trained a long time to be able to get an American
and and and come out in. One piece saw this generally that sense of intense joy in there and an people often say
time slows down when you're in the tube. But my experience, Vulcan Einsteinian, relativity, see this guy has no limits
Where he's going, I'm disagreeing because because by experience, isn't that its slow? So much is that its indelible in that that
Mama really imprints on your memory is all the fine details of what you saw inside and also what you felt
for their part of the moving, then he's describing yeah? I think what he means there is that that's a moment when you have to have absent
concentration. You know and an unkind kind of everything else out of your mind and focused so much on what you're doing
that's it. That's a sort of Zan of a barrel writing recourse.
So it is doing that at a level that the rest of us are not to trick you keeping up with these terms.
Then barrel? Writing you got if I actually have little game that I like playwright, dowser its costs or talk. Yeah
Oh a budget wasn't big enough to send you to an island and that's exactly. Why is photos I so here's? What I'm gonna do I'm gonna do I'm just gonna give you a term meal and then you can describe it and then
you can tell us if it's right or wrong, and then you can you,
and the sentence of your interesting using talent is everybody say, but it was the first one is
hang loose surfer. I think. If you fall off the board, you don't want to get too tight. Otherwise, in my break some she just go with the with the wave with crashing way. That's what I think that means
means works, relax. That's correctly, we get in a sentence under please in a sentence. Oh, are you gonna worthy speed,
where are you going to hang loose to storming
Tuned dawning. Yes,
may be after you
Your buried under the wave and that
and the only way we know where you are, is where your surfboard is because it's the only thing floating by its floating, how
oh vertically, I guess that soon zoning
It is to the point of your work comes out of water and it looks like tombstone right yeah. You never want to be a new, never want to be like that. This ban as very bad. Ok, I hears the last one. Hang eleven, no hints where this when you hang eleven hang eleven. I think that's what you look like you that last photo of yourself underwater when two feet
Up, that's just the number eleven hang eleven. So that's your so your head first travelling
I only know, hang ten, that's your toes all over the edge of our Lord Grenville it as hang eleven
Oh, hang eleven adieu surfing Mvoo
well, surfing Champ Kelly's later told me about another physics phenomenon that goes on when he serves big waves check it out. Another thing that happens maybe
check it out. Another thing that happens that you maybe seen footage of this. You know when a wave breaks. Sometimes it will spit all this water out in like air pressure, Scaliger sound like a whatever, so in a too
create this pressure. High pressure in your shit you're in the way you're dealing with high and low pressure. So if you have a way with all this is going on, all is going on. So sometimes you have to some
low pressure. So if you have a way with all this is going on, all is going on. So sometimes you have a two. Sometimes guys will be at an end,
even those it spit back in my face, I breathed on me so
If you have a way of that kind, us starts not real hollow it just kind of feathering too, and then it barrels and two gets bigger like this. It pulls air back into it,
because, if open had suction yeah created low pressure back there
fill that and so pray taken back draft and sometimes just knock it off your board or ill. So we
It spits back out. You it'll bring water with it and hid in the face, and it can kind of thing your face whatever and then
that water when, when the, when the two sort of I'll break at once, just color
in itself. It shoots all that air out and I'll shoot you out of the enemy barrel. So there's a lot of things that are happening
so bill, you thinking about all these things when your surfing
you just reacting user, think about it later, discuss it, Overbear, Travis and haven't you because you're off,
surfer. I do you have some awareness of this, but it doesn't happen on every way right. So so, when you model this stuff, you have all that factored in
I agree with bill when you're actually on a wave, your minds,
I'm going with that moment in your focus on that? But when I'm in the water the rest of the time, I'm thing Iraq commuter computer models, one!
the other one thinking about big swell forecasting and how ways are coming from you, the southern Ocean or North Pacific, in how observations
taking it and how their reacting to computer models and source the most important sort of physics factor and surfing. We didn't
in surfing and if you're actually talking about catching the waves, I think it's actually is
beat of a wave and speed of a surfer,
If you came all the way were so away comes in, but do you not serving it in your
surfing sideways. Exactly so, isn't it like the speed at which it
sort of trafficking timeline down the line to, but first we must think about like
always are breaking and the speed at which there Britain, so they break at the square root of gravity times the depth of the water. When you're
going to catch away. If you have to be moving almost that fast, when you go to catch me,
so, if you see the bigger waves that guy's in girls get too
the right you have to be moving deeper waters so as fast as those you couldn't paddle moving and if
At a relatively slow right behind move very waves to deeper water, so they so in faster. So you than paddle for smaller waves
simply slow speed and each move very fast to catch bigwigs like that. So I think that's rather than was impact important factor and surfing itself. While we come
segment called cosmic query. Isn't we take questions from our fan base and disappointed
The physics of silver, like people here who think about this right about it, who research it so oughta, be mute. The whole time as these questions go too. I guess you know you that of time into
here we go. This is a question. Everyone from Mikey CUPS from Instagram would like to know if the moons
disappeared? How wouldn't have that the waves of Earth Travis
so the waves of earth are generated by the wind on the ocean
so the tides regulate, how water moves around and drive a lot occurrence, but most of what we see in terms of waves is actually turn by the wind. The question, then, is: how does the
The lunar cycle then drive the wind and that's all other factors that you're not much is mostly. The sun sets Oji with german son. Unequal heating on earth surface generates pressure differences, so air feels high pressure here and more pressure. So all goes there and then you have wind, that's basically what happens and if you have, you can have cyclonic activity. Where's areas, not just moving from here to hear, is trying to get to that one spot, but it like overshoot it. So it's got and wrapped around, so you get like hurricanes and I'm just glad you wouldn't leave this to the gets right. This is Kevin Ban sky.
From Facebook who says if our energy continues when we die? What's our chances of surfing gravitational waves on another plain of dimension, where do they barrel tips for lifespan
it paddling. Maybe I'm lets him was even Smokin Travis,
darwins outside my worthy. What's into
about waves is that there are certain properties in common with one another.
But they are sound waiver liquid media wave in a medium of any other kind of liquid medium, so
this certain commonalities of physics treatment, as as you would do that, I happen to know that the installer track their walk drives. What they do is they sort of compressed space time in front of them and then surf the wave as they re expanded going forward, so they can easily go faster than the speed of light, so
I can imagine doing this, but not in the state of being dead, which was how that question began. Yes, exact right now, I don't see your spirit, energy serving rarely waves across the universe. At all you just dead
array. So Kevin. Your answer is you're right. I write
And finally, this is called Reuben from Instagram who wants to know this, assuming the presence of liquid water,
planets of the solar system, which planets gravity would allow for the biggest way.
Jobs. So just if there was liquid water everywhere, including gas giants like Jupiter. Look at that gravity what
planet would have the biggest waves to serve
no matter where we are. I would say: earth four billion years ago, now really now
Travis. Why is there? I was by this time the formation of the moon,
and all evidence and ideas about the formation of the moon tell us that the moon was formed by a
collision between Mars sized Proto planet side. Swiping earth cast
They are crushed into a ring around us. Much has said
it has a ring and that ring. Then
lessons to former moon. What matters here is that our moon would have formed at a distance twenty times
closer than where it is now, and the the height of the tides goes as the queue of the distance twenty times twenty times twenty years, eight thousand so the titles, the size of the
idle waves at the beginning of the formation of the moon would have been a thousand times higher than they are today. I want to be around them to check that out. Alan well up next Kelly's later tells us
about his top secret professional facility to create perfect way.
We have done this before you,
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we're here. Another commercial on star talk ever again. You will definitely not have to hear me saying if you support us at Patria, dark coms. Last our talk, radio I mean I'm just thinking I mean just
you made a deal with world clearly observer valleys later, has a little project? Go on our leisurely, a secret facility intended to create the perfect ways
We call the servant
the surf ranch here we are actual place. We call the surf ranch, but
create a man may wave using a foil, a type of oil technology too great a swell and create a bottom with certain cemetery to break away.
What's it implementing what you're describing what I see in the water parks, water pipes,
well, how about insult to law? We did that. I actually think times this,
resolve. When I was when I was a kid I went to went Wild Orlando and then,
hello way forward. They get kind of hydraulic, pull up, pushing pull system.
And these pistons or whatever, and and they create usable sort of weak waves. You know but ways to go in there
although it would be more in China right on your body, serve but Mamsie Pansy Wave Nancy Pansy out there are just weak waves, we call those when swells
it's got a winced. Well, as a swell, that's never quite formed
Energy overlong credit time, and it's just kind of jumbled everywhere
What we did with are wave technology will create. A solitary, solitary with M is my great going up, tough as it used to be
plus ram again there be plies knife to Solid B plus a nicer, so we wanted the greatest as a solid time, which is in our way. We can send an infinite amount of distance and wouldn't lose energy, and I basically mountain gotta consortium, people and said: look I want to create this wave. I think,
be interesting for surfing a designer way, design away, but also perfection. We want to make something
look different than any other wave anyone ever made before
Is, is a most perfect wave. You ve ever served in your life a single most worthwhile. There was a place in Fiji
in the eyes of the surfer. Yeah, I think, depends on what serve your talking, though, to if you want a big barreling wave, that's for one server, but it sounds like you just dial up what kind of wavy wants that formally the cool part about the engineering that their developing out? There's? U can manipulate the wave and outbreaks to keep telling what what assault on it.
Yeah, I think, depends on what serve your talking, though, to if you want a big barreling wave, that's for one server, but it sounds like you just dial up what kind of way we once that's exactly
cool part about the engineering that their developing out. There's? U can manipulate the wave and how breaks to key tell anybody what a solitary society
is an isolated disturbance that propagates freely, where the wave form itself the shape of the wave doesn't change and that has
need nonlinear processes that allow it to transfer through other waves without changing as well. Now can you say it again in English,
So it is a single wave that has
a very unique shape,
is driven by their pool and has the ability to just break it.
Actually how they want to due to the fact of how generated solitude salad
idiot. We gotta get there and I was doing it for the people, and so is it hard to do what he's doing there so the first
manmade. Solid salt was made in eighteen, thirty, four by this site
This issue is pulling a cart down
a canal with his horses negro abruptly, stop them in this
Orton, shot off the front of the bow, the boat that has turned down the canal
it ran on and on and on and chased it with his horse and saw a continuous and violent sparked bunch, a curious
they went home Delta Wave Channel inserted a study these things so that those goods never got delivered on the canal. I think together because physics mattered first right eyes so bill would. Would you go surfeit Kelly Ranch
nobody has made an artificial waves and even comes close stood. This thing he's come up with.
I remember when he pulled the current back couple years ago and they were working on this for many years in any
hold back and and and now we all saw what was in- and it was a major shock in in serving were like a like an earthquake. I love,
renders a surface story and who says that that's a thing: that's the thing is the one,
they met worship anyway here he says that in everything and surfing now will have happened, BP or a p before pool or after poor us.
So is this because you cannot train and home your skills on repeatable wave
Is that a mean this park, this incredible technologies with hasn't been replicated? I mean it's just that place in central value of California, so it's not you not implemented yet, but now it's because events, the philosophical challenge that philosophy interests surfers as you guys
and and it's not the ocean? And yet it's this dream wave! It's it's flawless shows nothing in the ocean is not clearly from effort went into building this Travis is this a phd
This is right there. I think it's a great future european thesis on now. I'm studying how the ocean interacts with islands so out in the civic
Yet how well good luck- and I hope you get it in the next few years- the angle meanwhile, and so had this come up. Would you switch your topic early enough to
I have an engineer by training, and this is actually what I wanted to go to college for when I first started out when I was seventeen, I wanted to go to college to develop artificial surfing waves, so it's called a like be a part of this and talk about this kind of aid. Now you have just told us why this is the guy
this country on the face of the earth. I wanted to go to college so that I could actually make artificial wave
no place us. So you could ask how might that engineering work in this secret facility, but this start off. We don't have to guess, because we bring in the expertise when we need it so right now we have.
Video call wave designer Adam fiction standing by live right now, Adam you doing Adam cheating,
you guys think tribunal starts off your chief scientists for the Kelly Slater Wave Company, that's the thing yeah, that's that fact
of that is available. Sometimes I mean there's one thing about being a way of designer and the other thing is about being a wave generator or wave crater. So you can't design something. It's like you're Levi's. You need the based model before you get designer model. So first was to generate a wave and then start tweaking it. I e designing it, and so this is so
it's not only the the math and the physics you can actually make make the machine to do it, but why does your heart well
you know, there's a lot of things. A lot of things. First off these type of processes are not easy to scale, so you might
produce a very beautiful little wave in your laboratory, and it looks pretty- and you wish you a small but to bring it up to full size, take several things. You need to build a scale it and then the engineering feet you're moving thousands of tonnes of water
in a very short period of time and water is heavy, so the engineering is heavy, large scale, engineering and then the costs. This costs a lot of money to do this, so it's not something
that many people be given the opportunity to take a risk without being
or of the science so just to emphasise this challenge, which is not unique to waive design
there's a lot of things where you can make it look good in a laboratory sky start at smaller scale model scale it up the forces interact slightly differently, so you don't get to reproduce what look so good in the lab. Yet so it's so exactly
how does it work or do we have to kill us all? If you told us that well, you know we ve been working on this for more,
in ten years for twelve years now, and we have a dozen or so pens to back it up. But if, after this,
oh, I see you clearing land in order that we might have to have a stern talk, will add a thank you for sharing your expertise with us,
can, I thank you said you were coming up. Process were Kelly's later explains how to survive even the world
The amount of money from the great right here in New York City, repeating my interview with consumer Celli Slater, and I asked him about surviving a white brown on human goin wave.
Check it out. One of my friends whose work
raises. They were rather world shrank anymore. Asgard Jones courses are stepping up its tonight but TAT he,
He had this interview where they asked him about falling.
Unless one waving and am in ways about fifty sixty four faces this day, and somebody said something to like
You know what happens when you fall away or wherever he goes well. You know he is you
like you just enjoying the right and then you have a whole different kind of right and you got joy that one too so the unity
idea being that it's all in the attitude. Well it s, because you gotta keep your high rate down and so the
calm? You are the more comfort Europe
and not all your own abilities, fiscally you'd be trained up and ready for that.
For a bad situation where you maybe get the air knocked out of you and you understand:
you still oxygen in your red blood
thousand you're not gonna die.
You just gotta relax and keep your heart be done as much. Can you gonna gotta go too happy place unknown.
But there's a dissipation of energy and the wave breaks and misuse it. Does it spreading that energy out any kind of keeps it almost four keeps breaking in the circular fashion and took a smaller small small
and then to you're just kind waiting that energy
very rarely and keep you with it going at the speed of the wave because yet give you
water, slowing down or whatever, so that energy is moving away from you and you're hoping you're not trapped inside of vortex of energy, and if you are, you still got it just kind of waded out. It's never good.
Be trapped in a vortex of energy. No event, you weren't energy, positive energy, whether or not it's an ocean where it can be spiritual nor in the cosmos, do you agree and it's not good to be trapped in a war, TAT, Myra fear.
My worst fears, but we call to waive hold down in our you, you being held down by using a bigger wave extra long until the next we have comes. You saw them made it back to the surface.
And the network breaks out down again, and you just don't stay under four that not a time I mean. I mean people survive to able downs, but but I mean they, given the people survive them who don't drowned think while their happening that they're going to drop. So can you guys control your heart rate, the way?
we asserted, I think, of your underwear for long enough. You already have a choice. We might panic. Where did the choices? Calm down and wait or for
now. How do you now? What does not even meet? First of all, his number
Great I'm worried about is about as much loss of sphincter control. Quite messing up my wetsuit not know, I'm just curious the app to say: will you now in a sort of mixed master crashing wave, but keep your heart wait rate down? How that impossible? Don't you
Thank you can slow your heart down when you're scared in big, whereas I mean there are times when you can't your panicking and that it gets more serious. I fine- and I just get really
really methodical. I think it's when you accept that you're in an area where you have to do that, it's when you you can actually comes up that which talkin about
what you say is you make peace with death,
right there, everybody right on the spot ripe and then, if you come out that phone right, as Kelly said you go for the next
and you know that it's going to eventually end, but you just hang out for a minute, so I'm just curious when you have wiped out. Is it just total turbulence down there? It's incredibly tournament, so there's a couple. Things
happening when you wipe out. First, you saw when somebody falls in a way that big again, this is way outside of Missouri surfing. Bones
We falls in ways that that big they scare off the service first, so that Knox, the window airlines
it's really fast, and then you get driven.
Deep in the ocean
in the Super turbulent area, white water, that whole white mass, where the wave breaks is much less dense,
then the regular ocean waters camperdown yourself through it exactly so. You can't really swim very well
and so that's why you really have to relax, because until the variation in the water dissipates, you can't really Swindon serfs. Anyone see
you'll, Gratulation, Roger tombstone, surfboard backup, sometimes because so fair competition that involves just big waves surfing,
Then just maneuvering on smaller rave yeah there's a
old series now a whole circuit court that the world certainly does that just focused on big waves. They did a contest very recently apply in Hawaii, which another also called jaws drawings. You gotta watch the biggest wave ever serve
biggest with ever served. You may knows better than there's so much hyper on that. As you can imagine, and it's like this like a big was the fish are caught. It actually ok and end its this. I'm in the perspective of the observer, makes a huge difference and how you mad at me. I'm sure you ve gotta scientific way to measure wave size, but servers do not so you may say surf in his heart but, like I have some evidence that maybe it's not as hard as they say. Oh and I ask world champion,
we later about this about this very clear evidence that maybe it's easier than they think check it out. What's this with the surfing the hours,
there's always a Youtube. I haven't you out with a lap dog surfing, I have a two hour and she hates the water. I mean it's like kryptonite changes hates the water.
I'm just say if a dog conserve how hard it could be, what you're doing, as I mean look, there's flatter thirsty,
doing science? How hard can market
We re talking about science and serpent right now. We have a discussion on this topic from my good friend bill now check it out
catch your wave on one of these things in your sittin on top of the world, and we
therefore say that, because of the feeling we get one
to borrow a bit of energy from the ocean and make it our own when
wave passes through water, Abode
do we will bob they'll move,
up and down a bit.
Wave reaches the beach. The slope of the beach makes it
we ve curl over her
tons of sea at the sand. The joy job
if a surfer boy or surfer girl can get on
top of that wave gravity.
Harry them to the shore. This works because surfboard
looks for in motion across the face of a wave. The surfboard gets up on a plan
the combined motion following and forward
pushes a considerable amount of sea water down. In that
exchange of energy with the ocean, makes for
Transcendent transportation serves up
But you knew
I recently learn that bill is a bona fides over. I didn't know that
his garage at home with two homes because he works both in New York.
He's got a whole line up, surfboards component
one is not enough. Unita need a few right. However, a quiver lies
pull one either accept some just curious. There's a lot of science in this is is studying the science just an excuse to get closer to
wave. I think studying waves is really important.
For ocean sciences,
the ocean and the atmosphere talk to each other via waves,
in a way that we were talking. They talk to talk
the reason in there are the big idea behind the weather
It talk now, as the waves are the means by which we transfer momentum into the ocean and how we transfer gases, and so
mentioning that would like in your time space our because who cares if it with one a Pulitzer prize. What make
to the ocean view that you, the went Seville, your your PA, burying days surfing life, Pulitzer Prize winning, I'm not even mentioning that with agony or times bizarre, because who cares if one apologia rise? What makes surfing transcendent ruinous question? Well, though, those PETE moments we ve been talking about in our great barrel rides and and and its trend
That's a good word for the fact that you can have an experience so thrilling some moving, so rapturous just
on any given day off an ordinary patch of coast, but but I really think that most people who serve don't do it for those pig moments is much more to the point.
This and the buddhist sets. I know you know what I mean. I mean just that
doing it every day you no kind of in our conditions and in the way that makes you feel both on the day and sort of over the long Haul Wilderness final clip. I ask pro surfer: can't we Slater about the deeper meaning he
writing an ocean wave check it out surfing to people who dedicate their lives to it. It's it's a profound experience. You know. What's it, it is a spiritual experience for us
and I dont know. We naturally need to be spectacularly good at it for two to have those experiences yourself. You have a feeling you have this
so I mean I only know what it feels like for myself, but it just feels so natural it just it feels like when I serve and it's all linking up just feels like I was meant to do that. You know more than anything else
to do that pointed today,
eventually had people say to me: they want to learn too much about how stars work, because that might distract them from their appreciation of the beauty of a sunset and my reply in every case is it does not distract from the sunset. It enhances it. Yes, the beauty of a sunset there's art in majesty to that, but there is also strength of knowledge to understand what is actually going on inside of the sun and this this juxtaposition of the machinery, that's behind what is making what it's beautiful is something that plays
all around us not only on earth but across the universe. So when I see people wax poetic about surfing and especially when they know what kind of physics
and engineering and mathematics underpins it. They are taking that sport. There are taking that activity to another level, and I am reminded of a poem redo. Now it's called the learned
astronomer. When I heard the learned astronomer, when the proofs, the figures were ranged in columns before me
when I was shown the charts and diagrams to add, divide and measure them. When I sitting heard the astronomer, where he lectured too much applause in the lecture room. How soon unaccountable I became tired
and sick to rising in guiding out, I wandered off by myself into the mystical moist night air and from time to time. Looked up. Imperfect silence at the star Walt Whitman leaves of grass. This is about
who came to recognize tat. You can have columns of numbers describing the universe. You can even embrace that.
You can go outside and embrace the universe that way, but it is the juxtaposition of the two that is truly transcendent, that the cosmic prospect
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Transcript generated on 2020-01-19.