« Stuff You Missed in History Class

Léonard Autié: Hair, Grandeur and Revolution, Pt. 1

2017-09-04 | 🔗

Marie Antoinette's hairdresser set the styles of France during King Louis XVI's reign. But when he first arrived in Paris, he had almost nothing. Just how did he manage such a meteoric rise?

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This is an unofficial transcript meant for reference. Accuracy is not guaranteed.
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that even most nobles would not have had, and after her Ladys in waiting, for example, would complete the long codified ritual of dressing, the queen Leonard and to Marie Antoinette Department and create the hairstyle masterpieces that have really become a hallmark. the young rulers, iconic image. I think most of us when we think of Marie Antoinette. We think of her giant, stacked, hey or thought of this event. Yeah wizard intolerable about That is all because this one person, and that I here, is very, very tied as well to the image of debauchery and corruption that Marie Antoinette was associate it with, as the french Monarchical your attack, her hair styles too. Many not only looked ridiculous, but they were also very expensive dangerous. Their sheer size me them difficult to manage their story her story of them just having to take things out. Change here to get in and out of carriages, at a time when candles provided all illumination. They were here fire hazards. There are also many stories of people getting their hair ignited or
on chevaliers escort around like basically, they were just the problem and not only was the loose the sixteenth queen spending massive sums of money to keep her style. This way, we're gonna talk a little bit about how much Leonardo the charge for some of these, but other women We are, of course, following her, led to try to keep up a trends So Marie Antoinette was secured in the press not only for her own loose purse strings when it came to pursuing fashion in style also for the financial irresponsibility that her style choices inspired in other women of the country and the man The comb who created all of that few error is the topic of today's episode and the next. It is a two part her before we get into this to talk about the term hairdresser sure, because it's one of those things that, in the modern parliament's I think most people that do here would like to be called stylists. Hairdresser has in some salons not all
dresser has become more like the person who does it's almost like the assistant who handles rinsing crap. You know that kind of stuff, whereas stylist is the. that actually decides what you're here is gonna. Look like you know: color, there's its varied, there's a whole different hierarchy, words, it's not consistent, even so, and so on, stylus, don't even care. Just let me do my. Let me do here and I'm good, but just think is. Anyone is wondering about that, because you may go to someone who says I run a hairdresser must In this context, the hairdresser was pretty much the we're gonna use that so dont think that were in any way demeaning. Anyone who designs, colors her hair, but lay in our colleagues over here. and they will learn, has called pressing was not because he thought he was an artist that needed to do it? He thought stupid people can do this and make a tunnel
someone to do it. So when you talk about Leonard Peltier, Leonard Alexis, RCA was born somewhere in the five year span between seventeen. Forty six let him. Fifty one in the South West of France in a town called permeate his parents, hey there living as domestic servants, but even from a very young age Leon. I longed for more than life in a world could really offer him and he learned his trade in styling here as an apprentice in Marseille and to lose, and then he spent time in board oh crafting the latest hairstyles, but his work never really caught on with the upper class there and he was unwilling to style the hair of women farther down the social hierarchy. So he decided that he was gonna leave Bordeaux and he set his eyes on Paris. He moved to Paris in seventeen sixty nine when Louie the fifteenth was still king and
and the popular hairstyle for women consisted of curls arranged close to the head called a tete de Mouton Sheep's head but he settled into lodgings in a less than stellar part of town at number fifteen rude anyway. He paid for two weeks the lodging and then set out the next morning to try to make his way as a gentleman of Paris. I sort of love because in the beginning this is definitely a fake. It till you make it situation he had walked, there's a basically nothing but was in his pockets and a comb he couldn't afford powder, so he used some baking flowers and leftover baking puck flower to whiteness hair any carefully prepared these garments there. Second hand, so that they would look really clean and tidy and artfully assembled. There's even discussion of how he very carefully tied his crevassed, so that all of the fleets were perfect that he looked complete. assembled and he put on a sword which is common
nobleman at the time and he went out to seek his fortune and, according to his account and we're gonna talk about his his memoirs, little bit later people in this He just stopped and commented on whether an attractive and fine looking gentleman he was. He made his way, the business of a monsieur le girl with well Moon hairdresser in Paris at the time. Looking for a job, the girl had written a book on hairstyling called the art of hairdressing, which Leonard had read, fact. It was one of the things that inspired the young man from the country to start pursuing a career in coiffure, but this was a case of admiration, this her kids back to what I said earlier, RCA felt that if someone such as LE grow, who was obviously in his mind, a buffoon could cultivated successful lawyer for himself based undressing, hair and complementing rich women, then certainly he could do this. Everything and he managed to establish an industry contact in LE grow. They talk about impossibly working there, and that was,
in part to a friend of Protease, named Fremont, who is already working for the established hairdresser Leonard, felt that he would quickly surpass the grow and he told Fremont's that he believed he would be cool we foremost hairdresser the universe in three years. This was a bold most for anyone but particularly than when he had arrived in the city the day before with almost nothing, but it evidenced the boastful and often overcome personality that he would really become famous for yet this is a man that did not lack for confidence is like point that, as I read his memoirs, in the biography that I read of him. I was really quite envious. A sick man must be lake, a delight to walk through the world with, like absolutely no self defence.
and with the help of Fremont Leonard quickly made additional friends and he started doing the hair of one of the actresses ethnic, let's theatre, for a role as a ferry, and this was initially sort of a funding where he was like a levy to your hair. It'll be fun, but his action which made use of jewelry and flowers and stars as accent pieces in this really lavish hairdo. That also involves a little bit of architecture to defy gravity, one, the act, who had been doing. Ok, but not exactly having a break out star moment, a great deal of attention quite quickly and in turn Lena. Also was given a lot of attention. The young dresser moved immediately out of his lodgings in the more dodgy part it down. So we could live nearer to the theatres performers and within just a few days he had become such a sensation that he gave the attention of Etienne Francois Duke destroy wildly, and I was glad to make a connection
closely tied to the king. He also knew that court politics could easily shift in any given connection could has followed a favour, so he also sought to expand his connections to the nobility and his posthumously published memoirs. He wrote in this time quote greedy for gold and fame. I may very well decide the destiny of my whole life within just a single stroke of my column yeah. He was very astute and realizing that he needed to Couldn't come on any one stroke of luck to propel him into the life that he wanted. So he really sort of cast his nest net very wide. He was really quite shrewd as a business.
and we're gonna talk about his incredibly speedy rise to success. I mean already he's been in France for days and he's getting attention from very, very high up people, but first we're gonna pause and have a word from one of our sponsors. This episode of stuff, you missed, and history classes, brought to you by Norton three sixty with lifelong, what they are shopping online with your smartphone. Its super feel like ear. Personal information is just right there in your hand, but that's not always the case, because, as soon as you hit submit your personal info and could start going other places, in fact, whenever you shop Bank or browse online, your personal, invoking it out of your control and that can we be vulnerable to cyber criminals. More threats demand more protection. That's why Norton and Lifelong are now part of one company Norton, three,
Stay with lifelike is an all in one membership for your cyber safety that gives you device security, identity theft, protection and a VP end for online privacy. No one can prevent all cybercrime and identity theft, but nor in three sixty with lifelike as your ally in today's connected world, because your information is out there sign up for Norton three sixty with lifelike today and save twenty five percent or more off your first year, go to Norton dot com, slash history, that's Norton, DOT, com, slash history for twitter The five percent off Leonard had a rapidly growing clientele him at the utter numerous actresses dancers demanded to have him perform the same magic on them that he has done on the actress who play the fairy Nicolet incidentally, he seems to have also had a romantic involvement with that actors. Well,
is well aware that part of his appeal was that he was handsome and charming and that some of the women who were seeking his services were also address. in him as a potential romantic interest, but even ass. He shot the fame inside just a couple of weeks. In Paris. There was also a bit of jealous sabotage afoot LE grow. The established Russia, who lay in art, had visited his first full day in the city, was jealous, that of all the attention that this new upstart was getting the grow, How did you want a smear campaign against Leonards morals, suggesting it seems a tendency to engaging in priority with his patron, but it seems like at least some Rumour only made the handsomely in our more appealing fairly go. Really. I could get my a man. May we have little action? I would like to look at a point of order, so he really I mean it was insane how quickly he became super duper popular in one of his new.
Patrons during this time? Was the Marquise Delong Jack, who was to be a part of Marie Antoinette arranged social circle? When the new Dutch, and arrived from Vienna logic, maybe clear to landmark that she was interested in introducing him to the french court, promoting him as a hairdresser earlier, but on the condition that we really can dallying with dancers and actresses if he wished to move into higher society, but there's really upset strong suggestion that what she was really indicating was it. She would like to sort of be his his patron. Have a romantic relationship with them. But if that we're gonna be the case, he could not be involved with other people. Ideas memoirs indicates The two of them began, its actual relationship almost immediately, he did not every sever ties with an actress barrymore the marquise seems to need constant appointment.
Leonard but as described in Wilbur Shores, Biography of Leonard Quote, according to one on liquor, her hair never seemed so badly. Arranged gestures hangs on those two appointment today, one in the morning and want them, and yet here didn't never Very good luck, introduce Lamar to Madame DU, bury the kings favorite and it was actually an invitation from do very that granted Leonard, an opportunity to visit, Versailles and other, meeting she made an appointment with him to visit her at her home the next day during that appointment, do bury, who had just exited her bath explains to land Ard. What a massage was announced that he gave her one request, but he obliged when he, or told the Marquise Delong Jack about it though she became quite jealous. Told him never to go to do very again, yeah. Apparently this is a time when massage was not like a thing.
This is a new thing from the Orient I've heard about you. Would you like, giving me a massage its unclear There were sexual activity or not, is entirely possible that we just don't know were Liam Aylward, however, had already made his verse eye contact and with the imminent arrival of the New Dauphine Marie Antoinette, he was not about to let that go so He first saw the young Austrian, not long after she had arrived in France, it's funny, but it was not exactly bowled over by her fighter especially attractive, although he thought that she had potential here, which had been styled by arrival to monsieur de named Larsson. You was especially disappointing and according to accounts of other royal, who had been involved in negotiating the marriage of the austrian princess to the future king of France. There is definitely going to be a need for a good hairdresser
ran when it had a very high forehead and her hair grew quote badly, which probably means that was then I'm glad you clarified that holly and outline what you wrote, because in my head, I just imagine that being full of Catholics regard This was considered a defect C c, definitely had a high forehead them, and yet unclear what badly means, but it seems like probably she just didn't, have like a really lush head of hair and their will. some hair lost later in the story, so that to me links up a little bit and as the new Dauphine became integrated too late, Versailles, Leonards Free and paramour the Marquise Delong Jack, became one of the princesses favorites as lady in waiting Long Jack Odin closer access to the future queen than most people and logic, and others, including Madame Du Berry
mention- lay in our skills across Europe to very into a net. But initially she retained larceny air as her hairdresser. For a time, then, surely the princess decided that she would indeed retire lesson you're with a lovely pension, and instead take on lay in art ass, her hairdresser. She received him for their first appointment in her bed chamber, which was outside of palace etiquette. Only Ladys were supposed to him the princess and a place of such privacy. The Dauphin insisted, however, also ensured that a number of her lady attendance remained with them to appease members of the household. He were concerned with scandal, as as most people than have read much memory internet. No, She was really put out by all of the there really codified rules of existence, particularly or a high ranking royal at Versailles, which she can think Lui the fourteen for he can. All those in place, but she just sake. I just want to talk to a person in my room. We just did
but Leonard One, the heart of the future, Queen almost immediately by addressing one of her concern. So she did not wearing bonnet. She thought she looked better without something covering her face and that it was important because of her status to for people to be able to see her face when she went walking around as this was late autumn. If she wanted go for a walk in the gardens, which was one of her favorite activities. She would mean to wear a hat to ward off chill and at this point the hairdresser came with a novel approach to solving this problem, so he decided he would incorporeal bits of sheer lightweight fabric in the. style itself to give her here a little bit of covering and warmth without hiding her face the star Delighted Marie Antoinette, and it became a common request for her to make of Leonard ends Lee was actually this use of fabric and trim interwoven with the hair that put previous podcast subject. Rose. Bertone in front of the princess Leonard suggested her
as a supplier of such adornments. So the Dauphine style stayed fresh new and having please future clean, so greatly, really cemented ATO position at Versailles. The shoot him. His position was secure and she soon came to rely on him for his opinion, not just on her here, but on anything involving style. He was valet DE, but for the princess which expanded his already impressive reputation finding himself and call the man lay in are decided to extend his good fortune to his friend frame. All we took on as an assistant, but he called him his lieutenant. The two men The favour of the royal could have an abrupt end, but together they thought that one of them could bolster the other one, and it was shortly after this partnership was struck, that Leonard called suddenly to style the dolphins here. For a trip to Paris found himself to sober up for the job. He Fremont apparently had concocted. This plan were very was gonna, be assisted and they
long dinner where they talked about the future and they had a lotta drinks which apparently lay an arm is not normally a big drinker observed. He was, I gotta go to some hair. He rapidly drags Erica coffee, and it was at that point with that. He went to that. He allegedly created one of the fashion trends that has now commonly associated with late eighteenth century style, and that is the use of ostrich plumes to action very, very tall hairstyles Leonard claims that the closer he gave Marie Antoinette that evening was more than a yard high from her chin to the top of the hair, and while this The gamble, in fact, when he told him about it, he was like what did you do? We're gonna get fired already, the Duffy actually loved it, and soon sky, high hair covered and feathers was all the rage and which had an effect on ostriches,
we talk about Monsieur Leonards decision to open a school for aspiring hairdressers, but before we day we're going to pause for a quick sponsor break party, I cleared out my whole data LISA Car the whole day. yeah. First, we need to study. I have some flashcards here that old, releasing a vocabulary, seclusion, Pappa costs, money factors, disposition, faith, You do not need to know all this to lease a car, but I gotta negotiate a good deal. Carelessly yes, it's the roadmap. You go through and take the car you want. Then they give you a tailor. Price is crystal clear I've already applied, discounts negotiated a low rate and included all taxes and pleased. Then they deliver your house both, but what about the acquisition Yes, ryan them to do you even know what an acquisition VIII is no, but I think it's on the next card there
welcome to the future of car leasing with the road a lap you can choose from hundreds of cars. Writing your area. We give you Crystal clear: pray that includes discounts, taxes in fees and once you decide what cartilage will even drive it right to your house. It's easy. It's clear, its rodeo. one layer was happy to found himself in the unique circumstance of having achieved success so rapidly, he wanted more. Many remained ever aware that fortunes linked to Versailles could, as we said a couple of times now change in an instant. So his next step, coming. The dominant name in here in Paris was actually to open a school for hairdressing with his friend frame home and only would taking students earn additional income, but becoming the teacher of the latest hairstyles and Paris ever sigh added another new level to his famous status. The school
tabled Leonards help himself out, along with two of his brothers, Pierre and John Francois, as well as a cousin named Delano. He sent for his siblings hasn't me from my country to Paris to assist him and, through the Academy de coiffure, to become hairdressers themselves. He was also able to use his connection. To get them regular jobs and the households of Versailles, and while this habit of using his success, help others in his circle and particularly his brothers, and bring them along is admirable. It also causes problems in the house go record, and here is why, All of the audio brothers began to use the name Leonardo, where his times, presumably to capital eyes on the popularity of the name and to manage multiple booking suddenly and earned, could just send one of his brothers and they would show up and say hello. I've Lincoln aren't immunity or air, which is great business sense.
it's like franchising your siblings assent. But, of course this makes the movements of the truly an art utter a little bit tricky to pin down, and that's actually gonna come up in. The second pursued in terms the death notice, so we the well documented the Dauphine. Marie Antoinette loved differ too small one of the activities she became interested in law. Charles Felipe account of our Twa. Through her brother in law, Charles Felipe the count of Artois and Sugar, idea that the count and Leonard should plan such events secret from her husband and the rest of the court, so that she could attend one in disguise and experience anonymity, and lay and are, of course, he anticipated. This did the lion's share of the planning, but the ball, together and the kind of Artois, the Marquis de La Jack and the Dauphine, all it the together. This actually
being an occasion where Leonard further ingratiated himself to the future, Queen aside from simply having throw the party in the first place and- become really one of her trusted friends, one other men that was in attendance at this mask ball had figured out who Marie Antoinette was. Many people did not, but this one man did- and He was being a little bit aggressive in his attempts to woo her he be no Leslie was taken, it is in terms of putting his arm around her waist and pulling her very close to him. Lay in aren't witness this and stepped in, and this actually got him into a briefing to costs with the man's friends. So these two men came at the hairdresser with clubs, Emily delay and arts account, which we all mentioning and he was very confident in his memoirs- really talk up what a great dude he was, but Where did because account he disarmed one of these men and he used the club that he took them to fend off the attack in the original vendor who turned out to be the Duke a sharper fled after being from a window. It might come out
surprised that, in the midst of all of his appointment and romantic dalliances Leonard actually married one of the kitchen assistance of Versailles Marie Louise Jack will be the couple had to die together, but it seems that the married itself was more of a convenience and security situation for both of them. Leonard established, one were tight of her, even if, on the lower end of the social hierarchy there and really he's got the financials parity of having a rich husband and even if they lived very separate lives for the most part. yeah they would go on to have more children, but initially they had one very quickly and labour, really continued to be incredibly shrewd about bolstering his position in a variety of ways. So, for example, com at times was all the rage in one thousand seven hundred and seventy three. There has been a warning that a comment was going to hit France and it was A big discussion There was fear and excitement, and while
no comment hit. France. There was a comment observed in October of this year, but all of that sort of common future spired lay in order to create a comment hairstyle for the Dauphine and she loved it but she wore it to the opera that name the huge hit. It garner just a plethora of compliments in it, an obsession with comet, themed merchandise in Paris, and it turned out that in something akin. Pre internet social network marketing scheme, though lay an hour had masterminded. This whole thing. He had paid people at the opera to talk up Maria. its outlined hairstyle and create good buzz around it. I cannot stress what is business man, so yeah heaps of he found a new way. It seems like almost every day to be like I need to solidify my position even more. I know I'm getting super rich, very busy, but I wanna be so richer and even busier earth that now we are going to pay,
here with Leonardo truly at the top of his game. Obviously he did not say the precise forever. So in the next episode were going to talk about how his career as the means hairdresser wound down. Other businesses yours and the ways in which is life changed in the face of the french revolution. And now I have listener? Male yea listener make a listener gift. We got an email from this person before we go if in the mail saying that that he was trying to arrange something, but it is for my listener Roland and his wife Galina it's his dear Tracy Holly Thing for the entertaining and educational show. I love it. Am I share it with so many friends, my I believe it is from Bulgaria from an area called the Rose valley and afterwards P recent show and roses. I asked her to bring something special back, from her latest trip in close
or to vials of pure distilled rose oil from her home town is area of cousin. Like I don't know, if I'm pronouncing that quickly, Galina had to be sure it wasn't figures, oil, so one is already opened sealed and it has her bulgarian seal of approval. So thank you so much they said Are these beautiful little tiny, wooden sort of vile cases, and then within them is a little with any there is a little vial arose, oil in their arms, ITALY. Beautiful has argued ever super cool, so this is where, in arrears, situation, Tracy is actually in the studio she's in Atlanta. This week signal weird she gets. The gift right here is receiving is really cool off. Thank you so much so. Yes, thank you so much Roman and Galina that absolutely beautiful, and I just I'm like debating. I keep us at my desk for when I need a whip. Something the whiff delicious or should I take it home made statement as for a little while I get to do both. Yes,
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