Situated on the beautiful cable beach by hamas- is a spectacular new resort destination in the Bahamas. With your choice of three ocean front hotels, the grand high it s a and rosewood. This is the place to find Perfect London luxury relaxation and a lot of fun, whatever you're looking for You can find it. I Baja MAR the Bahamas. Most exciting Larry destination. The resort is home to over four, restaurant bars in judges ranging from casual work. I'd uterus too high end chef, driven, dining experiences. Eleven glorious landscape pools acres of prestige each front. And a soothing esper spot offer endless relaxation, while guess find thrills casino, no array of high energy night spots and at the royal blew the most acclaimed legal golf course:

the kid just a short flight from the: U S and fifty minutes drive from the airport. Baja are isn't easy, get away any time of the year. The book your next vacation have one of the report's three iconic hotels and tourists. Or what you specials, including up to thirty five percent savings on your stay. Yes, thirty. Five percent visit Hamas, that's by Hamas, Dhaka Ba H, it may are dot com. Hello, hello, hello and happy Saturday. This two thousand and fourteen episode traces, the story of makeup throughout history, including all of the various elements used to create cosmetics and develop beautiful colors and how the production inexpensive mirrors made people much more aware of their appearance. So, let's jump and to the business of cosmetics come to stuff. You missed in history class from Housetop works, dot, com,

I welcome the path, TAT, Holly Brown and I'm Tracy being welcomed. So here is a thing that everybody sees all the time may or may not think very much about it is made up. It's such a common part of our society that we really don't think about it outside our own use. Normally, unless that is your field of interest or per year, but it really rich and lengthy history that spans the globe, it crosses cultures, echo so far back in its been in so many sort of places in terms of where its trend it and what kind of things have been used so that over time up today and to kind of set it up, for you were gonna jump around a little bit from location to location and talk about like how things develop in each location, so the timeline isn't gonna be strictly followed.

But we will start in the oldest known location of make up and then kind of end up in the west in the early half of the twentieth century, where the it really became an actual industry, and so we're covering this very wide swath. So I feel came few em, you know just give everybody a heads up front that there's problem there is a will. There is definitely stuff, it isn't. Gonna get covered, and if we miss something that your fond over, you know you want to know more about, or if it's your favorite thing and you wish we had mentioned it. That's always a good reason to send us an email and will have the contact and fell at the The episode like we always do so for right now climb into your time machine or your tardiness. If that's your thing and we're gonna whisk away. First to ancient Egypt,

so as early as ten thousand bp and Egypt, moisturising annoyance were being used to protect people's skin against the very dry desert. Climate and perfumes were also popular during this time they were pretty much used in ceremonial, religious events and it's interesting because these included ingredients such as pepper Lily lavender almond oil came a meal things that are still popular in cosmetics today later on and Egypt history, so around four thousand to thirty five hundred Bc E. I that's when we see the first known use of true make up Galina, which is the mineral form of lead, sulfide and Malik Height, which is a green hued. Carbonate of copper, were used as I enhancements, and you see these really often in Egyptian aren't beaver manner.

That would be ground down and combined with burned, almonds led an ash also ground into a fine powder, and this created coal eyeliner. So one of them most popular looks as the green shading would be used on the lower I sort of under thy, while the charcoal gray- and you know, solid black would be used for the top lid, and this is creating a look that sometimes is still in a stylize version mimic today and call the Cleopatra I, although she actually falls a bit later on the timeline than this. During this time It also became really popular for people to carry around small, make up boxes with them when they went. The social events thinks resort of the first evening, clutches yeah. They also the represented a certain class level like if you are a very fancy person, you could have your own fancy make a box which carried around with you

in both egyptian women and men used lipstick as well, and some lip color during this time was made from a combination of a purplish red die which was taken from sea weed. There were so, a bit of iodine and a broom and manage that were used. But this is one of those many instances where people suffer for what's fashionable because since bromide mandate is a toxic plant derivative, this made the potential price of Uti varies big, very steep, not just for the wearer, but also any one that the wearer kissed. It could really cause some very severe illness and even death, with a surprisingly small dose during Cleopatra era, which her reign. Was from fifty one to thirty beefy whip color. With a really big trend. Ground carbine beetles gave her whip tentless lush red tape.

While non royals, had to go with this mixture of watered down clay Wilson is also see accounts that say that she combined Carbine, beetles and ground ants to create this color that she liked and one of the interesting benefits of these various concoctions that were being used by the ancient Egyptians for beauty specifically for their eyes was it. They also had antibacterial properties. In two thousand and nine, a team of scientists published a report in analytical chemistry detailing the study that they conducted using fifty two makeup samples, and these are all samples that are held by the loose and this team used electron microscopy an x

a fraction to analyze this make up and they were able to identify, Galina, which is mentioned above, and it was used to make dark tones as well as lighter colored compounds of serious I'd lorry night and foster. Nine and all of these chemicals are led based. So the lead content acted as a toxins, a kill bacteria, Specifically bacterial infections of the eight were a big problem in ancient Egypt, so this use of heavy call around the. I probably did a good job of warding off a lot of those infections. We also know from art that cosmetics are believed to be a form of magic and ancient Egypt, so the researchers make the case that these antibacterial formulations on the part of ancient egyptian chemists word deliberate and they weren't. Does this accident all offshoot of the quest for beauty he had. The initial use may have been, but they develop it

There's a passage in their report. That reads quote. One cannot evidently go so far as to propose that the lorry and I was purposely introduced into the composition of the make up because of any recognised, antibacterial properties. Yet one can presume that ancient egyptian chemists recognised empirically that whenever this white precipitate was present in the make up pay Their bearers were enjoying better health and thus decided to amplify this empirical protective function by specifically manufacturing lorry night. So the problem here, which was probably obvious lead. Wow toxic to bacteria is also toxic to human beings. So there was a problem, so that was is sort of the the legacy of Egypt,

that, I think we hear a lot more about sort of the lead being toxic people, which it is, of course, but it also kind of helping them with their their vision and to prevent ocular problems is less discussed so having hit on. Egypt were now going to pop over to Asia around three thousand b, C e- and this is are we to the best of our knowledge? We first see the use of people colouring their fingernails, which was happening in China this time and is often referred to as a first nail polish, but in truth this was more of a stain situation. Color pigments were mixed in with egg bees, wax gum, arabic and gelatin to create these stains and vibrant or deep colors were reserved exclusively for

royals, whereas other people would have to go with much peeler tones. If we move ahead ensue about fifteen hundred BC e in both China and Japan, the aesthetic of pale ness became the pinnacle of beauty and rice powder started to be used to create this illusion of a flawless white complexion and at this point, Hannah dies were also used to Stayin here, as well as facial features. So it's almost like, if you ve ever seen, someone have their makeup tattooed, which sometimes women will still get eyeliner tattoos. This was sort of like the the semi permanent version has Hannah will last a much longer time than if you use coal, when we can hop over to Greece at about the same time as fingernail stains or becoming popular,

China in Greece having why led faced paint was really all the rage and they would add a flush to their cheeks over this white paint. Using this compound that was made of crushed mole berries and they would crush him. Oh varies down and then use the juice as a stain, fake, eyebrow also became really popular and they were usually made with the hair of oxen, which sounds very itchy to me. It does. It also sounds kind of funny to me just the idea of view. No augmented, vague eyebrows, since that's not the aesthetic Of the modern world for the most part, certainly mother, western, not her world, like the idea of people purposely giving themselves really heavy eyebrows strikes me as a kind of entertaining. So if we move forward a couple thousand years in the history of Greece to one thousand b c e you'll see

the white complexion was still very favoured at this time, and the white led was still used, but chalk was growing popularity as an alternative. Lip color, also begin really popular, and it was usually made with clay and red iron. And now we are gonna once again shift gears and locations and we're going to Mesopotamia assessed on a long journey. At this point- and we are once again going back to three thousand b c- and this is actually the space between two thousand and fifteen hundred BC, either. Things are happening and Mesopotamian. Ladies, at this time, at a pretty spectacular approach to lip color, they would actually grind semi precious stones to dust and use that dust as a lip and a face of dormant. There was also a lot of use of spiced perfumes during this time, and Cole was also used to line both the eye Eyebrows people in Mesopotamia also used henna as a nail. Spain and perfume concoction was actually taken, prettiest

seriously in this area by the ninth century, like perfume on its own, could be a whole. Other podcasts won't be completely in death, but I will mention it a couple times since it is technically cosmetic as well. So at this point we have crossed over from BCE to Ce E, at this point or common era, and perfumer Jakub out candy, who live from about eight hundred and three two thousand eight hundred and seventy a book called the book of perfume chemistry and distillation, and this described the uses of many essential oils and even former podcast subject ever Senna introduce new chemistry concepts around this time that really change the distillation of alcohol for both medicinal him perfume. You significantly. So there was some pretty important groundwork being aid in this area at this time in the year one hundred in Rome, a personal interest of mine, has always been a trouble spot for me as when pimple treatment

really hit the same people in Rome or using a mixture of barley, flower and butter to apply to blemishes, try to sue them and remove the irritation, and this is another local- and where we see a fingernail color becoming popular they use the combination of animal fat and blood and then applied that the nails to give a pink to read tint than to their fingernails, depending on the formulation like it would kind of varying how pale or deep it was just by playing with. Amount of blood in the formula over in India between three hundred and four hundred is when Hannah became really popular as both Herr die and in men, the art

henna and Mindy are both still around as popular cosmetic practices in India. Today bendy is the like: the henna artwork on people's skin yeah, that's often so beautiful like to see. I was a really intricate designs situated on the beautiful cable beach Baha MAR is a attack. You learn yours or destination in the Bahamas, with your choice of three ocean front hotels, the grand high it s about, and rosewood. This is the place to find perfect. London luxury relaxation and a lot of fun whatever you're. Looking for you can find it. I Baja MAR the Bahamas most exciting, Larry destination. The resort is home to over four restaurant bars in jeez ranging from casual work. I'd uterus too high end chef, driven, dining experiences. Eleven glorious landscape pools, acres of prestige, each front and a soothing esper spot offer endless relaxation, while guess find thrills

casino. An array of high energy night spots and at the royal blew the most acclaimed legal golf course, the kid just a short flight from the? U S and fifty minutes drive from the airport Baja are isn't easy, get away any time of the year. The book your next vacation have one of the report's three iconic hotels and tourists. When you're specials, including up to thirty five percent savings on your stay. Yes, thirty five percent visit Mordechai, that's Baja, more Dhaka. Ba H, it may are dot com. So now jumping into Europe while there is definitely evidence of the use of Rouge call bath oils and perfumes in the roman fire at the start of the common era, the

of the roman empire in the fifth century really marks the sort of vanishing in cosmetics in Europe for a time, at least as any sort of common practice. It was probably happening in pockets or in some of the very in a sort of upper echelons of society, but it really was not a common thing for people to wear make up there for a bit that started to change around twelve hundred when, thanks to the Crusades, perfumes and other cosmetic started travelling from the Middle EAST See Europe and we're reintroduced into the culture and between one thousand four hundred and one thousand five hundred. This is when we really first start to see cosmetics as an industry start to heat up, and this was happening in ITALY and France Early other places in Europe are using them, but this is where they were mostly being made, but even so the concept of perfumes in cosmetics was really still the privilege of the upper classes. Thou say the period when

art and science of perfume. As we know, it today was born in France. Here we mentioned perfume happening in other places. Earlier, but this is really where like what we would call like our today's sort of perfume. Pretty in development. This is really where the modern versions of perfume started and between fifteen hundred and sixty hundred in a we are now into Elizabethan era, and it's no secret that Queen Elizabeth, the first popularized read here in Europe. She also as the Virgin Queen was a trendsetter when it came to the use of white led for creating this illusion of youth. Sir ruse was made from white led combined with. Vinegar and it caused a number of skin problems. It caused the skin to become gray and shrivelled, and Queen Elizabeth is said, to have developed this pockmarked appearance to her natural skin, which she, just

covered with progressively heavier and heavier layers of sir ruse. Yes, The thing that was really ruining our skin. She was also using to cover up that ruination and it just kind of kept getting worse and worse and it began to be noticed that this white, led based paint, was really causing a problem with people skin and their health, and so while some women opted instead to use egg whites, they would just use plain, equates and sort of glaze their face, to create the solution of a smoother paler complexion. Dear one point of others that just thought that applying any cosmetics was gonna creed, health threat, because they believed a compromise circulation

oh later, figured out bid theories was toxic and it was linked to a number of physical problems, including facial, tremors and muscle paralysis, which, given that it contains so much lead, is not surprising. The toxic compound was also recognised as being lethal with cumulative use and its possible that it contributed He Queen Elizabeth TAT that she was also getting older men. They were probably a few different factors involved in that, but it is sometimes mentioned as one of the possible contributors and inland dangerous beauty doings though Elizabeth. The first had also used a lip color that was made. I find this so charming from bees wax and crushed flowers. I'm glad you said that, because I feel it is actually way, especially the much less horror.

I share the ruined pockmarked skin from the make up she had been wearing prior sought to achieve the queen's locks, and even you get lighter blonde tones. People used concoctions of sulphur honey and alum, I was sort of the Renaissance version of sun in. If anybody else remembers that product I would be applied, the hair and then exposed to the sun to create lighter and brighter hair and eyes Another thing that you know I mean we mentioned son in which was very popular in the eighties, is a thing that people would spray in their hair and had hydrogen peroxide and with lightning. But I also think of even like breakfasted Tiffin where she would put lemon juice on her hair and sit in the sun. It's the same concept, yeah, that's better! for a while. My mom and her sisters to you know our growing up in there in the forties and Fiftys when talk about putting lemon juice, their hair and lying around the sun

yeah, don't do that! It's bad! For you say. Please see a licence stylists collar to change your hair, color less air, but for the laying out in the sun now to get all of it. There are a number of potential problems there, especially because others, the complete aside, but some citrus, will really react poorly with your skin in the sun. Exposed and you can get some really really dangerous and bad problem so again we're we're not seeing to training beauty treatments and if you go online in fact, there are places where you can find like recipes for cosmetics that were popular and Queen Elizabeth ERA, but they will even say: please don't make these This is for historical. You certainly not as an instruction manual for you to create toxins to put on your face. I kind of do you want to make some lipstick out of bees waxing crash flowers, though I worry it would be woefully disappointing and then I would be like right in my just buy something so

in eighteen hundred, zinc oxide started to become popular as a face powder, and, of course, this is a much safer replacement for the lead and copper that were being used prior and by this point in time line the use of make up heads permeated through almost all of the classes, and- The development of cosmetics popularity throughout Europe, specifically in great Britain, was a little bit when Queen Victoria denounced makeup as completely improper suitable only for the stage, and it was make its association with prostitutes at this point that led her to this very vote stance, and so respectable women did not pay their faces. Make up did remain popular in

France. During this time, though, even their respectable society in Britain in the Americas did not look upon it favourably at all. It kind of reminds me of the reality Show Frontier House that was on PBS they may take the make up away from all of the women in some of them are extremely sad about that pact. So remembering that France, at this time, was like no worse took unawares and make up should not surprise you that the first modern lipstick was actually manufactured in Paris in eighteen. Eighty four- and this came wrapped in silk paper which to sound so luxurious to me, and it was made from dear tallow, which is solid, rendered fat which some less glamorous castor oil and be wax and justice had been used in Cleopatra time. Carbine die gave this lipstick its red tent in the way

eighteen ninety color for the lips. Then cheeks was offered for the first time in the Sears Roebuck Catalogue near so this point were not just in Europe, but also into the Americas and independent western culture at that point, but before we go on the wet starts to happen next I would just pretty exciting. Do you wanna do another word from our sponsor sure I'm very severe chemin escargot, p cordiality, and this is the Peat and Sebastian POD catches a show of beaten. I talk about our personal private lives just you guys

I am comedian Peak Coralie and I were media Biometric PETE six years ago on a bus in Tehran all eyes, terrible Iheart radio is number one for podcast, Zeno purpose man that you go like a step by step, might have it doesn't say anywhere on they do in the highest pitch voice. You have fast, as you can see, there's other pod case out there that you probably listening to or watching listen people I'm telling you right now. This comedy gold were taken. It showed to listen to the pain Sebastian show on the eye, hard radio, app apple podcast or wherever you get your pipe path. Though, to return to the story of make out we're gonna jump over to the early nineteen hundred after Victoria's death, edwardian society start

really embraced idea of make up in cosmetics, although often the use of it was still highly denounced, even by people who were benefiting from them. This is basic de the Edwardian, equivalent of denying that you got Botox or had the surgical touch. Ups, yeah people would be like. Oh, are you you know using Are you wearing a lip? Tint knew. This is by natural look. Color was kind of funny, and this is really the reed when beauty salons became relatively common in the western world. Although because this denial, and tat would be about using any sort of cosmetics was still pretty common people also denied going to see these. You know to beauty salon.

Patrons would actually often come and go through a back or a side door, so they wouldn't be seen patronising these establishments. Industrial is Asia, Leds you several developments that really slowed the seeds of the cosmetics industry. As we know it today, there was the invention of photography, which meant that people started having portraits made. You know not sitting for a portrait forever from a painter who was gonna, maybe touch you up as he went but actual photographs. It became pretty clear to people that having some make up on would make the picture look nicer and since Most people had to save up for these photography sessions. They had to really make them count. So people started really relying on make up is a way to make sure they would look their best in the pictures that they were spending so much money on yeah me This is a time when you would maybe have your picture taken a few times in your lifetime, so each other's features had to be the best possible

And additionally, this is the time when mirrors became a commonly manufactured item, so looking glass have been around since at least six thousand b c e, and they were certainly familiar objects in european high society in the renaissance. But the Eighteen, hundreds and early nineteen hundreds was really the first time that mirrors were inexpensive enough, that they crossed all class boundaries, and so this meant that every and became more aware of their day to day appearance, and this meant that air one grew, a little more interested in cosmetics and and there were movies of actors made. The transition from the stage to the screen there make up had to adapt quickly became clear. That stage make up did not look good on film, which, if you ve ever worn stage make up is not a surprise stage. Make up does not look good anywhere, except on stage was especially on film.

Really too heavy and looked very clownish- and this is where a famous name start to appear because MAX factor who was a primarily a wig maker at this time for film D what foundation paints that had a more subtle affects the he really is often referred to as the inventor of pancake makeup and These make up what more natural on cinema screens and he you know. This development happened in nineteen fourteen, and this kicked off his now famous make up company, which initially catered exclusively to the acting world. A year later in nineteen fifteen, the may believe company was founded by tee o

James. The cell and adapted burden of his sisters, petroleum, Jelly and coal dust mascara to the public. This version of mascara came in a cake form and eventually, mascara went through o wax bays before becoming the liquid bit. Most people are more familiar with. Today, however, may believe still makes one of the most highly reviewed mascara among the general public and make up artists like yeah that famous sort of pink and green. Two of mascara there. Between his manufacture for years and years and years. It's really quite funny, if you ever talk to make a barn, as most of them will mention that that still there favorites just kind of interesting has been around for a hundred years, not in that form, but the company hands

Also in nineteen fifteen, the metal retractable. Lipstick too, was invented. So this is when it went from being kind of a around cake that you would apply to actually being a thing. You could, you know twist up and down and toss in your hand, bag and not be a problem. It was to carry it was easy to apply on the go, although that this is also a time when stemmed souls were marketed, To assure that users could get like a perfect clear about pouch. Would have been a little trickier here to tuck into a handbag, zero sort of estimating the sizes. But you know I've seen pictures and people where they look like they're, probably about a four by four four inch by foreign card. With this little kind of shaped lipstick, stencilled cut out of the middle and you'd put it over your lips and apply your lipsticks that it would be the perfect shape after years of catering to film stars, MAX factor decided to expand its business by selling his formulas to the masses,

and as the decadence and the glamour of the flapper girl was on the rise in the nineteen twenties make up, which is the term. He said you have coin made movie star, looks available to everybody. And this really started only on flight of popularity so beforehand production makeup had been a little bit tedious, you know people would have to either figure out ways to kind of concoct their own or they would, by these sort of bizarre formulations and have to apply them and they didn't look very natural and resist. There were a lot of barriers to use, but as it became easily purchased and easily applied like you didn't need a lot of special skills. It became very quickly adopted into the mainstream. On average, the global beauty market has grown about four point: five percent each year for the last twenty years, with some a downward fluctuation concurrent with economic issues. I think we actually have an article on the website about the

stick indicator yeah and today the global sales for cosmetics is estimated to be about a hundred and seventy billion dollars a year and that breaks down to about forty billion in the Americas, about sixty billion in Europe about sixty billion. In Australia and Asia combined and another ten billion in Africa. The western world spends the most per person on cosmetics, but it is really just a shade ahead of Asia on this sitting. Thing to me, it feels like you know, industrialization is kind of what has catapulted us into you know almost this obsession with beauty and looks and sort of ours bit being super self conscious about where we look lake, whereas before that may be a little more relaxed. I had thought about the role of people having easy access to mirrors in sort of the perception,

What beauty is and what you should look like and how much carry should put into your appearance, but I had never dawned on me that photography played a role also. Yeah. I mean it. You know it's these. Various things, the kind of folding on themselves and they kind of ad layers of consciousness. To this, this idea of beauty in looks- and it's very easy sort of, I think too, to see how that eventually develops. It becomes a bigger and bigger thing, and you know television changing that as well and seeing people on tv all the time who are allegedly air quote normal, looking particularly beautiful in wanting to aspire to look the same as them and how you could see where we landed today, where this is this huge industry, so that, as of a sort of you know high level glossy version of kind of help make up, has developed around the world through the years. I want to do. I would love to go back and do more on Asia, which we only briefly covered because you're so much grace of there and I'm sure they're people within

an image conjuring going on in their head of like geisha, with their beautiful and very specific, make up rules and some of the theatrical make ups that go on there. Perhaps you ll get to that on another episode, but for hey. That's where we're out. Thank you so much for joining us on Saturday. If you have heard, an email address or a facebook url, or something similar over the course of today's episode, since it is from archived that might be out of date. Now you can email us at history, podcast at how stuff works, dot com and you can find us all over social media at missed in history, You can subscribe to our shadow on Apple podcast, Google, podcast, the Iheart Radio APP, and wherever else he wasn't the vodka

Furthermore, on this and thousands of other topics visit how stuff works. Dotcom situated on the beautiful cable beach homework is a spectacular new resort destiny. In the Bahamas, with your choice of three ocean front hotels, the Grand Hyatt SL. And rosewood. This is the place to find perfect, London luxury relaxation, and a lot of fun whatever you're looking for You can find it. I Baja MAR the Bahamas most exciting voluntary destination, the resort is home to over four restaurant bars in judges ranging from casual side. Uterus too high end chef, driven, dining experiences. Eleven glorious landscape pools acres of prestige, each front and a soothing esper spot offer endless relaxation, while guess find thrills. I'm a casino, an array of high energy night spots and at the royal blew them. Acclaimed, new golf course,

the kid just a short flight from the. U S and a pretty minute drive from the airport. Baja are isn't easy, get away any time of the year. The book your next vacation at one and the resort three iconic hotels and tools. We're winters vessels, including up to thirty five percent savings on your stay. Yes, thirty, five percent visit Aha, that's by Hamas Dhaka. Ba H, it may are dot com