Join one replies to listen, a business wars when we eagerly and ad free in the wonder, YAP down though the wonder yapping your apple or Google play Mobile appstore today, quandary. February. Twenty fifth, twenty ten docket, the capital of Bangladesh The seven story building is present doesn't Workers, said it so: emissions working, diligent their Crampton outside the Garabin gear, new I sweater factory and if they stop working they'll, Miss their production targets and take home less pay us. from the hum of machinery at work. It's quiet on the third floor. Young woman, pauses to wipe away the beads of sweat, dripping down her brow He curses under her breath. It's hot in here

though its past nine o clock at night. The air, still and dick the one glances wistfully at the windows, she's Toby had closed for security purposes, she's been in ten hours straight stitching, sweater after sweater. Suddenly, she smells something, She turns to another worker, her friend. Do you smell that weight is? Is that smoke its rising from a lower floor, and filling the room fast workers abandon their stations and rush for the stairwells jostling each other for space, but the emergency exits or seal shut. The woman, friend, join others in banking on the exits she screamed, but her Seville with smoke. A security guard grabs a fire extinguisher from the wall. He fumbled with it unsure how to use it

Some workers rushed to the windows, but their covered by iron grills welded to the building. Soon firefighters arrive the blaze started from multi wiring on the first floor, workers on per floors are trapped by the locked eggs it's an iron grilled firefighter struggle deprive them open? Many Workers will not escape the fat workers, including those who perished. We're working to fulfil orders for fast fashion companies, including H M and that fact will not be lost on the public and its customers. You know teacher, Your kids, how to be responsible with money doesn't have to be tough, go Henry's debit card for kids and out for parents makes it easy to teach kids a lifetime of financial skills,

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and this is business wars. In our last episode, we witness the birth of h, M, Topshop, Zora and forever twenty one for leaders of the asked fashion industry, as each core about a nation, their country of origin and began to expand internationally becoming started on a collision course towards direct competition. Now the right once more space and more crowded market and the concept this of selling shockingly cheap disposable clothing, but the dead tragedy in Bangladesh is a wake up, call for the fast fashion industry.

Click is learning about the high cost of cheap clothes. Some com These pivot towards sustainability initiatives to mend their image, others Double down on even cheaper clothing and a new company out of China is about to disrupt industry even further. This is episode three close call. February. Twenty six, twenty ten Stockholm, Sweden is the day after deadly factory fire in Bangladesh and allow with the rising death toll. News is spreading quickly. That h, M manufactured clothing, their agent M executor hold an emergency meeting, see Carl Johan person, Grand on of company founder early person, sits across from the but he's head of Sustainability Helena Helmer, since neither God man, sleep last night they see

in persons office, untouched cups of coffee in front of them, person looks down at his phone in faces, helm, the death toll, is up to twenty one. It's terrible I used to be product manager in Dhaka and I've. I've been in that factory met those workers. What a mirror from the fire. Inspectors is bad there saying its were blocked. Windows sealed security guards on duty didn't know how to use the fire extinguishers, but we inspected it just a few months ago. I guess that would help cover us, but the sheer fact that there were still working at nine p m. At best. It's viable accident at worst. Negligence, we'll have to prepare a statement so That say that we have historically been satisfied with Garabin. Europe's way of working with our code of conduct. as the best of our knowledge, this terrible.

Anxiety was not caused by poor working conditions or safety measures, person, knowledge fight, they reaching for his now cold coffee release. It This is going to shine a spotlight on the industry and not in the no such thing as bad press way, but the Judy shines a lighter and aspect of fast fashion that many consumers don't consider whose actually making the clothes they buy so cheaply closer cheap because garment workers in Asia or pay very little with few legal protection, the fashion Industry employs one sixth of the world's population, but only a dismal Two percent of workers make a living wage in Bangladesh. Wages in the apparel industry are estimated to provide workers with only fourteen percent of a living wage. Comparatively workers in the United States make thirty eight

This amount will come with a vast environmental effects of the highly polluted nature of textile. Making. One wouldn't call the fast fashion industry model, global citizen as people and about the environmental impact and the horrible working conditions. Thereafter, toots towards these companies, are changing and combat like h m. No, they need to do serious damage, control or risk losing everything they built but the timing for any push to increase wages or prices to offset the environmental and social toll could be worse. Two thousand, It's two years earlier, and the world is reeling from. The great recession is the most veer economic downturn since the great depression, millions people lose their jobs and those haven't yet watching their spending carefully. But when

I'm sure tough customers don't stop shopping they're, just more budget conscious and that helps these fast fashion houses in business for out of Workpeople preparing job interviews, you can't beat a twenty five dollars ever twenty one blazer but things behind the scenes at forever. Twenty one are not so rosy. April, two thousand nine forever twenty one headquarters. In LOS Angeles inside the Multi story, glass building with lush greenery in decorative hedges at odds the other wise industrial, feel do want, Chong and GIN Soup Chung sit with their attorney Bruce Brenda they are being sued and the atmosphere is tat, As you know, the Traviata case goes to trial next month. I know you used to settling these matters out of court, but what

accusing you as a bit more complex than standard copyright infringement the tongues. unconcern. I don't understand what makes their claims so different, Traviata, another California based bashing company. as accused forever. Twenty one of copying, seven designs from their spring: two thousand six collection, they're coming out you for violating trade dress laws, meaning you copy details button placement decorative stitching, that's Worthing Rhonda places a photograph in front of the charms showing three pairs of near identical, looking garments, the array no Traviata designs on the bottom and the alleged for for twenty one knockoffs on the top there's APOLLO shirt black red and yellow stripes, a brown and White Stripes cardigan with mismatched buttons and a rough old white Blouse gin, Suke scoffs, even

gap old navy and those stores they sell. Look elects its syllable everywhere, stripes they're, always similar. That's true. That's why I think you have a strong chance of winning this case trade Ass violations are notoriously difficult to prove weeds. Two vendors to manufacture products. We didn't we view these tribes because we didn't think they cause any problems, telescope, or at least by not killers, to see the features. They're saying we're copied, but you know like thank. You need to prepare to settle out of court if it comes to it. The charter there are no strangers to copyright accusations. In recent years. They ve settle filings against them by Wednesday, funny design on a sweet and me your brands, anthropology and baby, among others, for undisturbed I watched him out, but provide a lawsuit marks. The first time One of these cases will be heard by a jury if it comes to that will handle

but we don't even know Traviata. It's not like we're. being accused of stealing from a major brand, may twenty first, two thousand nine: U S. District court Santa Anna California GIN Sue. Has been called as a witness in the Traviata trial. She sits on the witness stand, the courtroom. Travellers lawyer questions her message. Who are the officers of your company who have product oversight? I do not know you Don't know the officers at your own company. Only my husband Surely you must be aware of your companies, financial statements and how much money you made last year, I dont know Would you be surprised to hear forever twenty ones sales exceeded one point: five billion dollars? Yes- and it surprising, I Didn'T- know

Oh, you don't know who runs your company or how much it makes. What do you Miss Jane I am head buyer, I over your team who selects what to buy from vendors. We simply trust the vendors and they manufacture the garment. For us, we get the samples and we choose. Pretty ones battle results in a Hungary with one hold out siding with forever twenty one. A mystery was declared and before a new trial, they can be said. The tube and settled out of court for an undisclosed, some mostly tumors, couldn't care less in twenty TAT hall videos or popping up on Youtube even profiled by good morning, America, Hall, videos your people showing off items they recently purchased from a brand, often detailing their opinion of the items as well as the cost in wonder,

oh two young girls, one brunette and one blonde face the camera in a bright, pink bedroom, so we just got back from wherever twenty live and we're gonna do all video. Yes, we actually had an interview. Today we went for every twenty one with good morning, America, and they are actually here in my bedroom right now threatening us doing this view, we're gonna put it so young? So then I got it outfits you and I think the reason I got this list that has one of the girls wearing out what I went to this when he ten video by Tennessee Sisters, Alan Blair Fowler, has over two million views. The two ties there you to business, turning it into such a success that the budget prized clothes feature Their videos often sell out nearly immediately and brands, including J C penny in American Eagle, start paying bloggers with gift cards in exchange for a hall videos featuring their merchandise, but the dark. I'd of hall videos. Is it

highlighting one of the biggest problems with fast fashion. Many consumers see these low cost closes disposable after a few wares, and that has created a pr problem for the end. ST as alarm about climate change and the environment grows. H M, decides to get in front of its image problem March, twenty four Twenty two and H M store in Manhattan to try something customers enter the storm begin rummaging through rags. One pause, when she spot something new deal these green tags. I've never seen him before says H, M garden collection made with sustainable fibres the woman up a sheer floral dress with ruffles, and this still only thirty dollars. I thought sustainable. Those cost more. Her friend reads the tag it's made from

cotton and linen recycled polyester. This is super cool with definitely made feel better about shopping here the women grab more items of green tags before heading for the room line, other brands of offered organic cotton clothing. Before that Tippit It comes with an added caused by incorporating these materials into their usual price. Boyd patron M his brow, king new ground textile making has long been one of the most polluting industries worldwide problem, exacerbated by fast fashion brands, but now h m is trying to hold on to existing customers accustomed their low prices, while also pivoting to using better materials will tell whether they can have their cake and eat it too,

in twenty TAT h m uses fifteen thousand tonnes of organic cotton, a seven. seven percent increase from the year before and their garden appeals to consumers who are becoming more aware of the environmental impact of their clothing purchases by the coming efforts to appear altruistic will soon take a hit April. Twenty four Twenty thirteen, it's five, a m in Sweden and Helen helmer. Since bone is ringing groggy she fell. Both for the phone in the nightstand, hello, curled, Johan person, her boss is on the line, there's been an accident factory collapse and survive run? A plaza gilmerton drops her head into her hands

survive, a suburb of Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh. How bad is it over a thousand dead, thousands, more injured, they're, calling it the deadliest structural failure accident in modern history, people doing business there, miraculously know, I've been reached. that no action and products will be found in the wreckage, but you know how it is Supply chains are so complicated. Even if we didn't work directly with the factory where the biggest exporter of clothing from Bangladesh, I think we need to respond. is finding it everyone talking about labour conditions in Bangladesh, we're in industry, leader and sustainability, but the media other gonna conflate this access, with our brand other companies are directly. Bogged I'm hearing Walmart that children's place mango. They should take the brunt of the media. Storm

There are also rumours that the buildings owner built for extra stories that weren't authorized in may have used supper materials. It's a tragedy. Ah France but we still have to respond. People expect answers and more than that, they expect change. She's right in the wake of the tragedy, H M and forty two other clothing companies, including Zora, sign the core on fire and building safety in Bangladesh legally binding document consists of a five year plan to ensure safe working environment, including Bennett inspections, new health and safety committees and training programmes. to empower workers, aging, I am also promises to pay its eight hundred fifty thousand workers affair living wage by the year twenty eighteen workers, and Bangladesh earn on average, the equivalent of eighty seven. U S dollars per month, which falls

although the world Poverty line H M when needed, triple their salaries. To achieve living wage. The company fails to keep its promise. Twenty eighteen. Independent studies reveal the despite helmer some claiming they have achieved all of their sustainability goals. Bangladesh workers are still living below the poverty line, and there's a new player on the scene and on only brand targeted at teenagers- that is some faster and cheaper than fast fashion brand, yet you know quit skin, slow you down with manual processes, integration, difficulties in glitchy, delays that leave you scrambling for the numbers you need. So you tell me comes to something as important as your businesses finances. Why actually are you still using quick books. Now. Is

I have to make the switch to net sweet by Oracle than now. where one financial system, because nets, we gives you visibility. and control of your financials inventory, HR e commerce and more, in fact, it Everything you need to grow all in one place with nets. We? U can automate your processes, enclosure books in no time, no matter how big your business growth and if you don't make the switch and wheat, its inevitable you're going to end up stop trying to make sense of your books, while you're competitors sprint ahead. Special financing is back to Sweet is offering a one of a kind financing programme only for those ready to switch today had over the net. We com, slash wars right now and get that special financing that net sweet dot com, slash wars. I say one more time: net, sweet dot, com, slash wars,.

Twenty thousand and Madrid Spain, grassy, yellow, manages a large czarist store in the city centre. She looks on as nine of her employees take inventory there waiting, Pissed, shape devices towards racks of clothing, a chorus of near constant beeps sounds as they make their way through dozens of skirt stresses and TOT Martine answers. The phone Zalm dread problem LISA, the chairman of Zara's parent corporation, is on the line, is starting And for him to personally check up on the brands biggest stores, I wanted to see how Tories going with the new are if I'd, Egypt or D stands for radio frequency identification. These chips

more information about an item in when prompted send that via radio signals to a scanner. It's been amazing last time it took worthy of us five hours today ten did the same amount of work in half that time. It's a world of France, from having a scant each bar code individually. I'm seeing the info here at headquarters in real time, and since this process is so much easier now we can do than to a much more often than we used to unthinking every six weeks instead of every six months. So the chips Alice. What selling well on? What's not rate exactly. It's been great for us with customers to If someone can find a certain size, we just scanner similar item and we can see worse available near by worth its available online czar experimenting with this technology for the last seven years and they landed on putting the chips into the security tax, a move- its. Let them reuse the chips when the security tag is removed, I'm glad to hear its work.

and we ve also been getting a restock so much faster whenever we sell out of something the data from the chips orders more automatically Islam knows it's not only making things easier for the employees. but it will also set Tsar apart. It will be one of the few companies to use this technology and more than two thousand of stores, and it will off in a big way agent, Still the market leader by about five hundred million dollars but is gaining on them thanks in part, This technology but while Tsar is focused on streamlining its processes forever. Twenty one doubling down on the appeal of cheap prices, may throw twenty thousand and fourteen Azalea shopping center near downtown, LOS Angeles

grand opening of a new store concept, called F. Twenty one read the eight thousand Square Foot store located in a densely populated working class neighbourhood boasts price even cheaper than that of a regular forever. Twenty one, including camera, it for less than two dollars and Denham for under eight dollars do one challenge, stands behind a podium alone: ribbon is set up behind him, ready to be cut after his remarks to the press, We are very pleased to unveil the first F twenty one right store in the Azalea Shopping Centre, with F twenty one. We are able to do for greater quantities of the styles, our customers sea, while maintain the value with entry level, category price points for every twenty one is known for offering this quickly becomes popular and the company once more. Have twenty one read locations in New York in Minnesota, a thing,

you're about to change dramatically, czar forever twenty one agent in an option are known for cheap, but there His competitors is about, take those ideas into the stratosphere and environmental concerns are on there to do list, the small town, a fox like Illinois, Joe Glinda, which was a hometown hero and a thirty year veteran of the local police department on September. First, two thousand fifteen, just one month from Russia he was found dead outside and abandoned cement plan shot in the chest twice at close range

while the town and Joe's family mourned his passing hundreds of police officers, launched a manhunt to find his killer. After weeks of searching the lead, investigator discovered, chilling secrets about Joe, the local police department and the village of Fox Lake secrets that, once I'm covered with put the town in the national spotlight and haunt for years to come, wondering shocking. True crime podcast over my dead body, is back for a third season, with a story about corruption, the trail and the secrets of fallen Europe follow over my dead body season, three Fox Lake on Apple podcast or wherever you get your pie casts or you can listen early. An ad free by subscribing to wondering, plus an apple pie, casts or the wondering at twenty four

in non junk China. Thirty year old, Chris shoes in his office, speaking to a potential investors to you the American born shoe, gave up a business selling wedding dress is online to customers in multiple countries and purchased a web domain. She inside dot com since then he has been using the site to sell ultra cheap women's clothing to a young audience college students love the price Which are literally half that of similar items at Tsar oration EM, but so far it's been small operation, with only about one hundred employees, They have zero brick and mortar stores, no in house design team and those El phoned supply chain. Instead, they buy all of their inventory, from wholesale stores in China and sell direct. leader customers online shoe leaned forward as he gets into the meat of his pitch to the investor. He's ready to take

this business model to the next level. Demand is soaring, but I think we can do even better. So my one is the higher designers and we're going. Move our operations centre from council to paying you with a fine trees are located all of our facilities in close proximity research. development, logistics manufacturing even customer service. The investor nods similar to what Tsar a dozen koruna their headquarters are right. extra the manufacturing operations. Yes, although We have an advantage over tsar. We don't have any brick and mortar store, straining funds, we'll concretely european and american markets, by selling merchandise, produced in China directly to the public No intermediaries that's all very interesting but I'll admit I'm confused by your background. You have no expense and managing supply chain operations. Are you either

interested in women's clothing. Shoe is unruffled, My expertise lies and marketing and search engine, optimization that's how I started my career working for. Company Nanjing my come has grown popular because of our online presence. We are at the or front of social media marketing. We were already advertising on Instagram and Pinterest in twenty twelve, when other brands bear new those sites existed by what a brands identity. What c aesthetic when I see Tsar our ancient, am I understand what those clothes will look like their knock off some european high in fashion and runway copy that sort of thing. We are I'm trying to create our own aesthetic, we're simply selling popular trends to customers as fast as possible? That's why customers want they can buy. an entire outfit, including shoes and accessories for thirty dollars. Now, we can compete with that. In twenty fifteen

Shoe renamed is companies simply she in a year revenue sores, two six hundred seventeen million dollars, but by twenty seventeen exceed one point: five billion. Site features an enormous amount of inventory produced in small batches of one hundred five hundred pieces reducing risking case items, don't sell well shoe, builds a team of. Hundred designers and prototypes and homes the supply chain, which cysts of many small to medium sized factories and because they ship small value packages directly from chinese warehouses to customers. they are able to get around paying a lot of import and export taxes. Some retailers with many brick and mortar stores can't void twenty seventeen she and is gaining popularity in the United States. Even bigger

turning to appear on daytime talk shows like the real everything you say in your today is from she, India, com and style expert Sheila, Ah, there is here to tell us all about it. I'm so excited to be here awesome some. She lay it's time to start stocking up on. This summer's must have fashions ray, and I heard that she and is the ultimate one, stop shop for the modern fashion Easter, who wants to be the first to rock the latest style totally. Whatever the latest fashion trend is machine com, you can be sure to have it and it's free shipping they ship to over. Eighty trees, awhile minimum required you guys by the end of the twenty turns Sheehan along with. fellow ultra fast fashion, brands, a soul, boo hoo have some did themselves as a legitimate threat to the brands that dominated the last decade and experts start predicting

legacy players like ancient aims, are forever twenty one in Topshop we'll be crushed by what they call fast I should like to point out that these brands, going to take that lying down in our next episode. she and continues to make moves. While H M and forever twenty one fall upon hard times, and the Bell tolls for Philip Green of Topshop. When unsavory accusations against him turn the public against the company from three. This is episode three, a vast fashion for business wars Like our show. We hope you give us a five star rating in a review and be sure to tell your friends subscribe on apple pie casts Spotify the wonder reactor wherever you're listening right now and illicit episodes. One we girly join one replies.

find some links it offers from our sponsors and the episode notes supporting them helps us keep offering our shows for free there's. Another you can support the shown that, by filling out a small survey and wondering dot com, slash survey and tell us which, news stories, you'd like to hear a quick note of recreations, you ve been hearing in most cases, we can't know exactly what was sad, though senior dramatization, but their based on historical research. Host David Round Erin calmly, wrote this story voice. Acting Michel, Filippi, Jennifer Sunbelt will Choi and Stephen Food Karen Low is our senior producer and editor at it. Didn't is by Emily Frost, sound designed by Kyle Random arrests. he had producers, Kate, young, our producers, Dave Shilling, our exact Producers are Jenny, Lauer, Beckmann and Martial Louie, created by or Non Lopez for, wondering.

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