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Elena opponent path, I'm homily, frightened, I'm Tracy be Wilson was not all that long ago that mankind was not entirely certain of how high it could go without a vehicle and much more recent history, then people may realise is certainly is more recent. Then I realized, if you would ask me prior to researching this topic, I would have guessed at the summit of Everest had actually been reached in the late night century if it does the same kind of like a late nineteenth centuries story. Why am I swear it? Seeds are so near, but now so today we are actually talking about. However, it became this ultimate climbing challenge and how it was first conquered by a b. Deeper, and the nepalese guide so were first gonna start off by covering the geography pretty quickly, and I should also say this is gonna, be a two part, because they were

took a lot of time and effort. Yes, this is an example. Often when we have two partners of something that we didn't, tends to have a two part and farther we got into it. The more we realized we needed more time than we had yeah, there's even so, I feel like you know, a lot is edited out of this, like certainly you could expand, Thirdly, any one of the expeditions and make it its own episode, because there are these really detailed and intense right ups of each expedition in all of the various things that happened, but this time, we're gonna, mostly be covering the time from when it was recognised by the british biggest. Certainly, people who live near it had known about it much longer than that and how it became an important goal for many people and then we'll kind of get too early efforts in a second episode will do you, post world were too through to the magic moment and even a little

for that so heads up, that's where we're going as official gonna cover a little bit of the geography of the area's Mount ever. As part of the himalayan range which separates the Tibetans, so from the indian planes to the south and the Himalayan law is approximately two thousand miles or thirty two hundred kilometres long and about a hundred miles or four hundred and eighty kilometres wide. So in terms of like one side of the range to the other side of the range, rather than the link that it runs right that's right on the border between Tibet and the Paul. Just east of cabin do and the mountain range was formed by the shifting of the indian tectonic plates pushing against the asian plate and that process by is ongoing the him away as good a little bit taller every year. Still the summit have Everest is recognised as as point on earth. It's just a little bit higher than twenty nine thousand feet or eight thousand eight hundred metres, and it's going up incrementally each year,

with its leaders. At a time the climate is anything but hospitable, temperature, and dropped. Two negative eighty degrees Fahrenheit, which is minus sixty few celsius. At this summit, the air has less than third, the amount of oxygen that it contains at sea level and because streams of the climate can take more than a month to climb mountain and if that is so the body- has time to adjust to this attitude high out three rural, a dilemma, which is fluid, accumulate in the brain, is a serious risk and it can not only made climbers feel weaken lethargic. It can also cause confusion, and lack of coordination and climbers have been known to start talking. Vibration exhibit really poor judgment. Am I actually have a personal anecdotal thing about altitude success that I discover for I was reading the notes for this, which is my dad. Career military, his career air force,

he's telling you about this Pakistan that I was working on it. He started telling you about this crazy altitude, sickness tested. We do when he was in the air force where they would take it. The really really high in a plane, and you kind of had a buddies with you and half of the guy. To take off their oxygen masks and then given a quick, simple for question test and they had to answer it as quickly as they could. And if they started getting lucky, it was their bodies job to put the oxygen back on them because they were getting altitude sickness and he was describing to me what it was like. A kind of have that inkling of I know not right here. He said you know you'd right the first you she's, fine and then third, when your pen would trail off the page, but you'd think he were still doing it except you get a flash of not doing

oh, no, I'm doing it and it was a sort of a fascinating insight into how, like your brain, is tricking you as you go to think you're. Ok, you're, ok, you're, not! Oh! No! I'm! Ok, no you're! Not! I can imagine how frightening that is. When you are there, twenty nine thousand feet me well and I think how the tubes Agnes kind of gets a lot of them press as far as the health effects of trying to claims mountain. There are so many others like oh yeah. The air is, though, dry, that people will cough until they break their own ribs from coffee yeah. I was watching a duck Henry while working on this and wonders how about how is the air was so drying cold that even in his boots, the skin on his toes started? crack open and expose the bone. Underneath there were other, very gross thinks you won't go into. You can go to the modification by cats for growth rate, but I mean the body is just really put through its paces when you're getting up at these attitudes

just reaching base camp on the nepalese side of the mountain can take about ten days and then normally climbers will make a series of stepped climbs like they'll go up a bit and then they retreated little Baden, that'll, repeat kind of as part of this attitude acclamation and they keep doing that and before. There's like the big push moved at the summit, it didn't get its famous name until eighteen, fifty six when it was named after Sir George Everest, surveyor General of British India for him. Thirty, two eighteen, forty three who, by the way they were actually saw Everest the mountain the people living around it, of course, have known about it for a long time before the British. But this moniker to it and considered it wholly. So the people on the tibetan side of the mountain. It was Como Longboat, which means Goddess mother, and then the nepalese people to the south of it called it stagger Martha,

prior to being named Everest British called it a peak fifteen and I think this to me is why I feel like a lake in century story to make This whole thread of british colonialism going in India. Actually yeah. I mean that, as I said, its roots are definitely there and it really sort of loomed in british consciousness in terms of the the survey They were doing this for quite some time, and it really was that sort of empire mentality. That kind of, I think, fostered the planted the seed and fostered the initial ideas of group. Gonna go after them right. Even sharper people who lived at the base of the mountain had never tried to climate prior to the british fascination with it, but once which had been identified and named its aware, became completely irresistible to explorers,

mountaineering, which was still in its infancy in the late nineteenth century, grew in polarity among thrill seekers and peoples who sort of had this desire to see what they could do, what they can conquer in nineteen. Thirty. Captain John NO, who was building on the work of previous explorers trying to unlock the secrets of the mountain got killed There, too, it than any outsider had allowed allegedly within forty miles of it, There were a number of political issues going on at the time. The revolution just ended. China's Ching dynasty in Tibet was making a move for independence, while Russia and Britain were engaged in what was called the great game as they made strategic moves for power and Central Asia. All of these complex relationships nations, made it difficult for british expeditions to get close to Everest and no allegedly shot out by a Tibetan guard after

survey. An expedition report was given to the royal geographical society in London in March of nineteen nineteen by Captain John. No, More one had actually delayed the presentation until then, so there were several years gap between when he actually went on his expedition and when he was able to. Really meet with them and discuss it in detail and in this report in detail size in the scope of the mountain, as well as the cultural political landscape immediately surrounding it and as a consequence of all of this information. The Mount Everest Committee was founded, and this committee, was funded and staff as a cooperative effort, primarily between the alpine Club and the royal geographical society, which are british organisations was focused solely on ascending everything, even though it had been talked about kind in adventurer circles in in the geographical society, This is the first time that they really there was tend to paper. There was a plan. There was a committee founded we're going to Everest in nice

in twenty of Emmy, see negotiated with his holiness the thirteenth Dalai Lama, who gave special permission to the committee, so climbers kid access. The north side of the mountain, via Tibet and throughout the world history of Everest Assent attempts. The embassy was frequently in talks with Tibet to try to get permission for each of their climbs, an expedition to climb the mountain began almost immediately after they got this permission. So in the mountains committee launch their ambitious campaign. The highest human had ever climbed was twenty four thousand feet, just seven thousand three hundred fifteen metres in the care a quorum range with sits at the border of China. Pakistan. No one actually knew if anyone could survive the conditions. Beyond that height, they kind knew they were throwing people and do they didn't kind of now. They knew they were throwing people into a potential debt situation. Early, wait watchers, they have launched a new might be to be program at their most groundbreaking and costs

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idea of climbing over several decades earlier at the Royal Geographic society Bruce who went by the neck, browser was a veteran climber and he was a fluent nepali speaker, so the tea mapped approach, reach to the mountain and climbed to about twenty thousand feet, which is about seven thousand meters but lit? they have no intention of trying to get to the summit. At this point, yeah. I mean they really were as much as there was this desire, and you know, passion to get to the summit. They were going about it in a pretty methodical way. They were trying to be very careful and gather as much information as they could so in nineteen To the next year, an expedition that was led by George Angle, Finch the first real go at Everest and George Finch, had been born in However, recent Switzerland, he attended Geneva University while studying the physical sciences, thanks to his chemistry, knowledge,

finch was actually a pioneer in developing the oxygen that was used not only on his climb, but on many many expeditions after it major General John Jeffrey Bruce. He was cousin to Charles Granville Braves, accompanied fence, although he wasn't a mountaineer and had never made a climb before- and this track as well as many after its travelled along the Tibetan Plateau and followed the eastern a glacier attempting to ascend every from it's called the north call, despite Jeffrey Breezes, lack of experience this team set a record by ascending to twenty seven thousand three hundred feet, which is about a thousand three hundred twenty metres they did not get to the summit after returned to London, Finch actual a falling out with the Mount Everest Committee and he never climb in the Himalayas again he did. Involved with mountaineering, though- and he eventually became president of the Alpine club, which is one of the groups that originally formed the embassy, the ninety

twenty four Mallory in Irvine Expedition is famous in large part because of the time the associated with it too We're lost in this quest for the summit, George Bert Lee Mallory, who is thirty. Eight at the time, was an extremely accomplish climber here then, on the previous Mt Everest Committee expeditions and he was considered the most skilled climber of their group. On the other hand, Andrew Comin Irvine, who went by Sandy, wasn't terribly experiences a mountaineer and he was also very young. He was only twenty one. He was really and agile, however, and he was originally chosen for the mission to assist the oxygen officer, no Adele and Adele served as just as well as oxygen officer on the expedition- and he was actually the last to see Mallory and Irvine alive, despite Irvine lack of it, periods due to his physical fitness. He was chosen by Mallory, it's a partner with them on this final upwards surge airlines.

Skill that made him the perfect partner with his knowledge and this dexterity with the oxygen tanks that are used on the mountain. Yet we think of oxygen tanks. Now, I think, is being this thing that gets ship to you and its main factory they're well made, and they really were very fitly. We early at this point. They would have problems with the line say would be no need to have things replaced. Go, won't even modern tanks, they don't make it equivalent to being anyway near sea level like barely take the edge off of the whole oxygen deprivation situation. Yeah, I may have to be extremely careful with their use of it because they had limited amounts that they can carry with them and limited time in which he could just physically make it up and down the mountain, and they have the kind of meat out their oxygen usage to try to pursue the Align with what they were gonna need as they went.

It is worth noting that on previous expeditions, Mallory had been against the use of oxygen. He wanted to say without aid, but he really and to change his mind this time around Irvine who, as we said, was expert at dealing with the notoriously problematic and heavy tanks. Had also found a way to revise them to make them five pounds later. I think I read a thing- and I didn't put it in these notes- that that was basically a change of. They had been thirty five pounds and brought them thirty. So I wasn't like they were. You know like briefly to carry that still a lot of weight that has been exhausted and can't breathe very well. There so already two pushes to the summit without oxygen. Tanks by the expedition had failed, reaching Twenty eight thousand one hundred twenty five feet, so they tried third attempt. Aids aided with oxygen and in the early afternoon on June, eighth of nineteen, twenty four, no Odell, who is trailing. The two men in a support position, saw the pair

you're the base of the summit pyramid- and this is the last time that they were seen alive Storm blew end and Odell fell back to the North pole and kept watch for movement from above and after two days. With no sign of Mallory or Irvine he climbed up to the tent. They had left to make their summit charge, but they weren't. There and there were no signs that they had ever made it back to the camp. Odell thought they were in short, a summit when he saw the blast as they were going very strong when he started them. Although Do you not know to this day for certain if they ever did reach the top of the mountain, the other Saying that most people remember about this expedition is a famous quote from Mallory, worrying the United States on a fund raising to her for the trip and nineteen twenty three, the New York this journalist asked him why he wanted, and his response was because it's there I love you.

We all you here I mean that's famously quoted and when you said you were doing these notes about how horrible it is to try to do it, you will like. Why do people do this, and I said because it's the best, because that some sort of sound bites that we ve heard through the years and the court has been criticised as everything for being Kallas, egocentric flippant and even as evidence of this said of ongoing British Imperialism debts. We met impossible to talk about this whole thing: without acknowledging how rooted it is in british imperial. Oh yeah, however, There was actually more to this response that isn't. The only thing is that it was like a drop them. I can walk. Ethel does sound like an actor on the kind of work

Mallory went on to say: Everest is the highest mountain in the world, and no man has reached its summit. Its existence is a challenge. The answer is instinctive apart, I suppose of man's desire to conquer the universe, so still at all egocentric, but also you could see the route that its he's kind Knowledge is that there is the psychological drive that we have now and you can also make the same kind of argument: stir exploring things like space in the ocean. Exactly I kinda minded point that both of the Poles had already been reached in virtually every corner of the world had been explored, so too explorer adventurers, who, you know were definitely a type of person that was very much in the public eye. At this point, Everest was really the last unturned stone on the globe, getting

they forget the ocean. I know this I keep thinking like, but what about below, but they weren't is excited about the water. I am really excited about the ocean. I wish they would be a big ocean exploration. Will there's lots of them? Perhaps will talk about them in the future? in nineteen, seventy five chinese climber found of body at twenty seven thousand feet, which is eight thousand two hundred thirty metres, which made I've been Irvine and then it expedition in May of ninety. Ninety nine found Mallory is frozen corpse on the mountain at twenty six thousand seven hundred sixty feet, which is eight thousand one, had one hundred fifty seven meters so at this point. They ve been on the mountain for seventy five years and there have been recent expeditions and twenty ten and twenty eleven to search providing those have not been successful year. They I confirm whether or not that chinese climber actually found the body of urban, and there is also a camera that the peer took with them

that was borrowed from another member of their team that still fits somewhere on Everest. If it were to be, found it could be the piece of evidence that people need to determine there are not they ever reached the summit. There there's been a lot of theorizing about whether the debtor didn't based on where their body will like we're maladies. Body was found here. You know, Mallory, his body was definitely injured, although found so late that any number of things could have transpired in the the various here. So it's still a bit of a mystery and one that, if you look at any like every message, boards or discussion groups or anything is still hotly debated. What kind of love before we get to the next expedition? We're gonna take a quick break in here from a word about our sponsor this episode of stuff. You must in history class, is brought to you by

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Nl Vd for cleaning tips am exclusive offers visit Dot com, slash bona clean, so turn, the subject at hand so annoying Thirty three expedition, headed by Hugh Rutledge, was unsuccessful, reaching the summit Rutledge, who was in his weight forty. It was kind of an unusual choice for the team leader. He wouldn't really be. To make any summit pushes and he walked with a limp from an old injury to some attempts, made during this x expedition and reached a height. Many thousand one hundred twenty feet or eight thousand five hundred sixty five meters and a third go, The summit was actually abandoned, pretty early on. They realise that conditions were not gonna be successful, so that pretty much wrapped up the whole trip another year later and nineteen thirty four an expedition is not mounted by the embassy was under

you by buy Maurice Wilson Welfare, pretty foolishly the summit Everest alone, despite having, experiencing glacier climbing, and you can imagine how ended. He died on the mountain year. Their neighbour Wilson left for this Everest adventure, a british paper called his Paw quote an elaborate suicide which turned out to be altered, true, it appears he also really irritated him, and he was something of like a You will know of daredevil is the right word, but he would get a wild here and do things he had never done before. Like I'm a fly playing across, I think the Alps, which I know you he had, never piloted. He just jumped, and I mean that fact check all of this, but I mean reading about him. He too still lots of crazy stuff, like that it does seem a little like you have a death wish. I don't understand it. Yeah like why when there's cosy, oh well, I think that I've seen like that there, the big

movie about ever. So much is about that summer, a few years ago, when so many people died, yeah and at the beginning of it I was like. Maybe I could climb ever one day and within about six six minutes airs like other never think I will forever you ever young, I'm in the same boat. I think its veto, I understand the lower, but. Now. No in nineteen, thirty five Eric Earl shifted, let another expedition and he had been on many Everest climbs already and he was on one of the summit pushes during the nineteen thirty three Rutledge expedition. In nineteen thirty five. This was another reconnaissance mission that was meant to gather information to prepare for a summit attempt the next year and TAT is right up. He had several specific goals here. The expedition was aiming for collect information about monsoon and snow conditions. They wanted

get possible, alternate routes to the summit they wanted to report on eyes formations on the north calls a proper equipment choices could be made. They were going to do new mission personnel they're, going to experiment with food and equipment provisions to make sure they hearing exactly the right amount, not overweening themselves not being under prepared and they were gonna perform staring, photographic survey of the surrounding area of every so that they could expand on the survey work that was done by the first request: Its mission in nineteen, twenty one, so disappointed several nations than they had made it, so they kind of like let's regroup, do some more recon and put together another report. This tradition is noteworthy for the presence of one of the porters tens ignore gay and, while the thirty five trip was his first Everest climb. He would become a hugely important figure in every history, and this expedition also found

Maurice Wilson's body and diary. So the gentlemen who wanted this alone was discovered by these people in nineteen. Thirty. Six Rutledge led a bid for them. Wait a second time, while he'd already led one team, the Mount Everest Committee appointing him as leader was a little bit controversial during The earlier expedition, his leadership had been questioned and many felt that someone, both physically stronger and more assertive would be a better choice, although these to be universally liked. Yeah very soon alike and major five. He really wasn't the ideal man to lead a team going up a mountain that was extremely physically demanding needed. Really strong leadership. Think he's a nice guy, but he's not ready for this. And this is also interesting because it's the first time that radio sets were included as part of the equipment surprised the no radio communications done during any the expeditions. This expedition, which were again included sharper. Tens ignoring day have to be determined

early because of an early monsoon and they didn't make any summit pushes team. Thirty eight attempt was headed up by Harold, William Tillman, who had also ban on them in thirty, five recognizance expedition and having had a lot of difficulty with the climate icing. During that nineteen, thirty five trip Tillman was able to climb up to twenty seven thousand feet or eight thousand two hundred thirty metres taking it along in Northwest Ridge, without the aid of oxygen, as with the nineteen thirty six expedition, this mission was cut short due to bad weather, can do No doubt the geologists who had made the last exchange with Mallory and Irvine was also on this expedition and then World affairs kind of got in the way of this exploration, world war, two put a stop to the expeditions in part because the politically state, made permissions

through the areas you would need to access a mountain almost impossible to obtain and also because british resources were obviously focused elsewhere. Slatter ratifies yeah he'll come back in part. Talk about what happened after the war was over Europe. Has we haven't gotten? yeah really out of sight of many years trying reconnaissance missions the whole mine, it's so fascinating to me to think of this ongoing effort of just throwing people at it over and over training. Get this one thing and you have to wonder like at some point, I'm sure they were discussing it like what does this mean to them and why are they so intent on it? But there, I think, There's really different for a lot of people even today that do it, but we also have some listener mail. I do indeed have funds from Berlin, and she says I only in Tracy. I was pleasantly surprised when I saw your podcast on. On Prince Sourdough. I was a bit of a history junkie during my childhood in Korea. Santos tragic fate is such a puppet

story and Korea, and it has been constantly re told, with creative licence in korean literature and even tv series. I thought it might be Trusting to hear your perspective, especially as someone who had not had exposure to this story before I thought I knew three pretty well but you're park. Ass is full of surprises. I may be over generalizing hear of it, but Prince Otto is often portrayed in Korea as a victim of political power play, and so historians even go so far. To say that Lady Hong was involved in conspiring against the prince, but all the details, included in the pond, cast really seemed to make the case that sorrow was a deeply troubled serial killer. It from me to do a little bit more research in the main, supporting evidence for this conspiracy. Theory seems to be. The obituary was written by John Joe sorrows, biological son Here John DOE portray Sancho as a bright prince who rolled out good policies and emphasizes that political factions at the time drove a wedge between Sancho and his father. Young Joe Pinzato was also posthumously, given the title

King John Joe in eighteen. Ninety nine. I just wonder why they would honour him like that, given all the terrible things he's done and still a bit sure how to make sense out of all of these theories. But thank you for restarting my interest in history a good time looking up in evaluating various theories and ideas surrounding Prince Otto, hopefully more similar projects like this one. Yet, interesting story, and some of that came up in my research, where she has been sorted out in different ways throughout history. That, as part of the evidence, has come to pass, and, as is his widows biography, was hugely important in in kind of revealing. What

really going on which I don't even think is entirely at odds with the way she's describing him as being portrayed alot length, I dont think he was inherently intentionally have had person. I think he was just mentally ill and his two sides of his psyche that were fighting against each other at all times, because I had a story. It is also just fascinating, and I love hearing about asian history, and so it was nice to get the perspective from someone that grew up in Korea and spent time with the story from the childhood perspective on up really cool. So thank you Ellen that, without, if you'd like to write to us, you should do so. You can do that at history. Pike ass, the discovery that come on. We can also connect others that Facebook, our cars

MR history on twitter atmosphere, history have missed in history, dot, tumblr dot com and on pinterest dot com, Slash missed in history. If he would like to learn more about about what we ve talked about today, you king Gos website and enter the word Everest in the search bar and one of the things that will come up is or their dead bodies on Mt Everest. Susie. I guess so many inviting talked about a couple of them, but there are many many more and lots of other stuff too. Oh, yes, we can talk about that in episode to solely hopes you back here, In the meantime, if you'd like to research, almost anything you can think about you do that at our website, which is house the bookstore Furthermore, on this and thousands of other topics have works. Dot com

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