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like in a probably very difficult thing to do, but not that great. I think, sir. I can a man I think it superfluous to solve school. Are you remember spots Mackenzie? Have it hang twenty? Whatever poster? Do you remember spots? We can well, that's a good surf teddy. Had they accordingly, the posters that I've seen people still covers dogs buds Mackenzie still after all these years, Yegg who can terriers is some sort of pit ball Terrier, but like a Stratford sheriff, I have no idea. It is terrier, that's yeah because they go after rats in Mailmen, so Chuck yes, do you guess when the first recorded description of someone surfing was- or you can guess the fifties sixties though I know it.

So I am going to tell you again: it was seventeen! Seventy nine in fact, did you know that I did Sir, was the one you're gonna get, So I said the area, so any was, as you know, I guess, by a guy named Lieutenant James King, who, at the time of the writing, had just very recently become the captain of the autonomous discovery, because his captain Captain James Cook, your famous explore, had just been killed by the Hawaiians because he had taken their chief captive in order to force them to return a boat because he served in their waters and localism. Yeah. I guess so. I guess, and apparently the tradition among Hawaiians who, as far as localism goes, it was pretty serious and always has been always been that way, stratified out there

but anyway, so James King? He first describes this at this sight of people writing these. On wooden boards catching a wavin. Writing it on and on a kind of established. Her said the president for Hawaii as the originator of surfing yeah, but what's pretty causes one of those instances where Europeans came in yawns after something it started and actually get it right, because Hawaii was in almost all likelihood the place where surfing was born. The track like get it started in Polynesia, they have a kind of belly. Boards are think they call them, but they didn't really ever stand up. It was the Hawaiian first stood up. Era to Hawaii is the cradle of surfing, of monitoring a man they ever do it

yes, they sure did and due to this day, was carrying on a very long tradition. There. Yes Willie queer thing you mentioned localism by initiatives stratified out there. There actually places in Hawaii where, if you were, a member of the ruling class. You didn't surf there and if you did you gotten huge shovel usher select the the like King Command mayor was a chief. Why into very famous one as the club that make them hangs out at his name, the king may club, and he was noted for being like a really great surfeited. You know that I did not know that never heard of the guy actually for king murmur. That's pretty much. The only hawaiian chief, like I'd ever heard of probably from rising Meda yeah, but here

great surfer and eventually surfing became known as the sport of kings area. Because of that, because the chiefs surfed there and they are pretty good at it, and their social status was exemplified by the length of their board Oh yeah he's pretty said along the board the higher status he had at exactly a commoner or a king yeah, and could be a very good surfer and not be for the ruling class. But I still pretty well revered in actual your colleague, commissioner, less your surfing expert. So it's a big. Yes, there was a fat surfing, expert, ok Mozilla is bizarre, were yeah. There's like went by over and you can t be legal fat guy lay around the beach in your like king, daddy and have them face. Tat is out of the others. Do

The Mai already do ethic. They serve ok about we're talking Polynesia. There are uneasy. Think. Oh man, I hope so. Let's talk some more surf in history you know they were serpent big time in the late seventeen hundreds standing up, pushing doing all the modern moose, while not alma mater move, because they are pretty much long words back then yeah, while on long boards, but it was when I was a huge part. Society still is They like in this one. Article two like baseball was an: U S. Housing, Polynesia and even though it's all just a guess, how would evolve? We no idea really because polynesian there's really no certainty about their movement around the earth thousands of years ago, right or I'll disorder. Guessing at this point but Mark TWAIN served the he did

he didn't have very easy time of it. He treated at least a year in the eighteen. Seventy stands rating sixty six he published in his book roughing it. I tried surf bathing once everything was bathing back there I guess serves on bathing, and then I got pictures bathing was when you ve started going into the ocean. Yeah you're like washing your, but right or maybe you are because no one really bathed back then surely it. I tried bathing once subsequently, but made a failure of it, I got the board placed right. And at the right moment to but miss the connect. Myself. The board struck the shore in three quarters of the second with any cargo? I guess he was the cargo, struck the bottom about the same time, with a couple of barrels of water in me so Mark TWAIN. First experience was probably like many people's first experience with serving mine, included

yeah and I M so TWAIN visits Hawaii at a time where there are a lot of Americans hanging out there and they were growing a lot of pineapples and they since Hawaii wasn't a state their allotted tariffs against those pineapples and a couple of guys, two cousins with slim of dough decided to overthrow the hawaiian chieftain so that they can get the? U S to annex Hawaii and get these tariffs lifted and as a result of this and missionaries coming and cooks, people in all that why to dwindle, for about eight hundred thousand. Both time cook showed a take forty thousand and surfing kind of went with it interest window

but there were some people still surfing right and just enough so that there is a resurgence. Mark TWAIN was doing, it must have been him he's, probably like the first. The second guess, the second like I never write about it with a third White guy Jack. London was one who brought surfing into popular Walter really yea visited? Why uniting us haven't had any hung out on one of the one of the ways that he help spread surfing just by writing about a guy named George free. Yet he is ethically invented modern, serving yeah and was a heck of a lifeguard, as were some of the allotted early surfers, it seems, like you were great swimmers. Great lifeguards great surfers,

Duke Jahannam Icu. He was a fine time Olympic Swimming Medalist and hugely travelled. European everything gave swimming exhibitions and maybe the first category beach valuable to the right here. Great restaurant and supposedly one of em invented the year. The law back board that, like the rescue board, oh yeah, even those that debated, but some people. I think it was freed the free yet three manner that, but he was the first. You d like stand up get moves. I think his boards were shorter and of this is gonna turn of the century stuff right, like nineteen o, seven, nineteen twelve, when those guys we're surfing They were surfing, unlike along wooden boards, and I like really long like ten feet sixteen feet,

like imagine, trying to maneuver one of those. Well, you don't really, but they were the first to sit here. We can can change these boards and make a maneuverable, so they there were. The first was the figuratively. I guess literally shape modern surfboards. They create the shore or are they started to? They started to make changes to want to fight plank avoid any longer. So then the twentyth century is when the short word came along in earnest. And may added things like? They made him wider, of course, which easier to manage their new shapes, helpless stability

Then they started messing with the fence, to which I guess wouldn't get too here in a minute, but fence make a big difference. According enough there's, a lot of most of the defence effect boycott like us, wouldn't go together. They impact stability, feel DR maneuverability, and you can have all kinds of things from a single fin to up to five Even though I get the impression that five senses level of noxious academic training, we'll say this loud and I think two or three things is what you're looking for is well, it depends what you're trying to do, the angle of the fence called the two minutes. The angle in relation to the centre of the board so can be cut. You know diagonally or Distrait on ok. If it makes a board more responsive, the closer than the front of the fund is to the centre of the board. So the closer the more angle, the more responsive it's gonna be and then you have the cat. That is the anger

in relation to the bottom of the board. So we have no can't is too straight up and down. The angle that all this can be super fast, its aim, this can be more responsive, so I'll change depending on how then how did they are have they are what the angle is on, how you gonna drive this thing. Basically it can be foiled on both sides or have no foil. More oil was more lift. Ok, have a rake which is hard, how far back the thin curves. So it's like a super shark man, it's gonna be different than its. If it's a little more distrait Small rake is faster, but again not as maneuverable flex. Stiffness that can be really super stiff or have more flextime stiffness is stiff if it's not as forgiving here. But I think, if you like, better surfer, you're gonna want more stuff, And then you know the base

the smaller the base of the Van the tide of the turns the height in the depth of its tolerance margin, all those lightened museum maneuverable. So some of removable. Now, oh yeah, reset end, but they make merry connection. Remove the fence is great for travelling in storage, and I guess if you just want to make things up a little bit but yeah. It's there's a lot of work that goes into that's just the finns alone. Just a fence on the bottom. Yet because I always wondered towed into this like what it was that one does have. One thing was that have three: why those friends huge why those angled men at all matters that are makes a difference in religious depends on what kind of like when you're buying a car depends what you're looking for. We have like the addition of things. You can thank like to condemn in the George for that at the very beginning, but they cannot popularized surfing on the West Coast and the West Coast took over.

And about the early sixties, thanks to things like digit in the beach boys surfing this exploded, and now we have the it. I guess the the change from supports in nineteen twelve to two thousand twelve and a hundred years incredible, an exponential sure they hadn't changed much for the thousand or so years leading up to nineteen twelve right rather, everything is. Can it took off in the in the twentieth century and am now you can basically categorize they kind of board that you're holding your surfing on as the either a short border along bordering. Well, I mean yeah, then there's dozens of other boards within those categories. Rhyme Leah does visited the categories till it if you're pretty good surfing, you probably gonna, use a long board rank a distance. What you're looking at you? Ok, but, like you,

If you are a novice along boards, not the good when you start out on well it's easier to stand up on because its large more stable in but you're just gonna. You know you can't maneuver written cut back and stuff unless you're like super good right and it's a guess akin to either like driving in the big Cadillac down the highway urban and your little sports car, yes, which you could learn to drive on either Sure Vernal onward depends what you're after I would be along board got now. Would you days are tried surfing. It was like a tried. The shore burden you as well as to set that's the thing, but now I would get upon the longboat understand there, like walk up and down to hang them do other than have you ever see. You know what are those breaking a net beach movies where their surface area- and it is they are. Literally standing there with their arms in a movie side by side in the autumn. In the back. It's just a dream screen behind them here in long working

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got long boards, which are about nine feet long at the twelve feet, long, which is just crazy to me, like you, could fit three people in their pretty company. Yeah I've seen like a lot of people on along Board like when they do the tricks and stuff. You get name a number of people, but I feel like I've seen at least four five people get upon a long word. Anita fun boards right these only the most fun What's a lot was of onward I've kind like him between along garden, ashore, Bordeaux and it's fun. Vesper tricks, I think if you wanna make really kind. Shred or whatever, and also I should probably say. I have no idea what I'm talking about here referred. I think people have understood that by now, but I'm the issue for it is obviously better for that. Could you can't know yet african thread the wave but in a long words, hearted maneuver. Unless you really really good at it, but a fun borders,

and a thousand between those two like you can kind of rest to relax and you stand there if you want, but you can also maneuver right. That's my impression of the fun bored. I thought you had never heard of the fun bored. I hadn't ahead. You. I really didn't you with you one thing I did now what I was about so back in the day there were all made of wood. Now you can still get wooden surfboards. In fact, I think a lot of the purest can still get like the sweet, Handmaid Windsor, words, but mostly these days, they're gonna be what's called pop out, ass, manufacture. They pop out of a factory molded where they get the name and there either polystyrene or polyurethane covers five.

Play some resin and but you can still ask you know him make those two obviously can or you can pay in thousands of dollars, for some dude in California, Hawaii to hand shape your own sweet little bored, yet traces of it before its costs between a hundred fifty five hundred dollars and you shop in on Amazon com. Here yet I found some, there were pretty awesome for less than a thousand yeah Emmi, like the vast majority, are less than a thousand years can surprise, because I thought she was way of which you are not, but I am now and I think that you can spend over a thousand like anything if you get like the sweet, dude

and make some of these young for it. The right you're gonna pay a pretty penny, but I mean, like I've even came cross. One I've Proctor surfboards need do custom boards and even those words like less than a thousand, is pretty that's nice, because that makes it an egalitarian sport. You think so little I'd say this a little pricey, I'm definitely yes, but I'm saying at least it's not like a big gap between the poor man, sir for it in the rich man, Serbia, is not ten. Twenty thirty thousand dollars its thousand fifteen hundred yeah yeah. I guess that's that's what I mean yeah. You can easily be price out of it, but you still get a decent support for what cover under bucks the I had about a support for fifty bucks, This kept for in college, because I thought we could have in a corner my living and I'd like to give the beach couple times in its Itzhak other. Did your bedroom with liquor, pottery, bonteen cattle?

seen everything they reward regularly have surfboards likes stood up in the corner. Now there was this checks, so in us in the day. So did you say that you have made of policy? thing and is covered in a reason. I did and fiery lesson which makes it light. It makes a buoyant, but I can also imagine if you get hit by one of these things, hurts bad yeah. I mean they're they're lightweight, but it is somebody in the head with a or, if you get stabbed with it in other sharp yeah on the front, and sometimes in the back. I wouldn't by a sharp surfboard, let's be afraid of it. What would you do? I get? One is more rounded: you get a keyboard, which will get it in inner tube. Ok, see you get your support. Another really important thing that you have to have

you have to have all the other stuff aside from the leash, is kind of superfluous. It's nice, it's an airline. You had to have wax because polyurethane resin bound surface tends to be slick, especially standing on it in the water, and you can use wax to basically create liquor, traction surface for your feet it helps for sure, and there also that, like completely slick on top like where stand, though, have like you know, them was not sandpaper. Maybe this impact Ok, I was glad into it. I hope that little bit, but not always again, surfers are very particular about what they like and what they don't like. They're. All sorts of choices in this is doctor sex waxlike. The wax says that this is the wax guys, like me afraid of. I am sure that was the stuff that we were teenagers like, that

and what was the guy the Sunday in Panama. Juliet dislikes aim was Panama Jack. Like the motion that joy I get it. I think his sword like that, but Panama Jack was lotion and choice was institutional projector rolled up sleeves area, so bored shorts, Tracy wasn't or this Tracy points, outboard shorter, sturdy versions of central another against their beefed up, they have us ever tie. So it's not just like I M elastic yeah, there's a difference. It scattered get a strong tv, usually don't have elastic They are sturdy. The ices think they don't come off as easier through their design. I gotcha visit the embarrassing rash. Vs that those her dislike the little short sleeve Oakley shirt

where that keeps Europe, and she says Alps, rich aping, with impact with the water may be true, but it that if you ve ever been on a surfboard your chest, it gets a little chafed as well from the sand and stuff like that you're. So that protects you there and then, of course, what suits when you're, cold or, if you're in the Pacific Ocean, which you know usually around there weren't, what's its other yeah, guess the whites. Probably not superfluous. I mean, depending on where you surfing, you sure, have to wear what's in here either a regular several or your goofy foot, which means which foot D put forward. If you put your left foot forward and you're right, foot back is to standard and then, if you turn around and put your left back, your known as a goofy foot seem with their escape one yeah and I don't know if you're welcome, serving legislate wording. Some say directly legislative work not enough that the flag, because money, goofy foot or to be a goofy foot

thinking. Polly was originally put so many people, skater surf goofy foot. Now it's like a term there had to be ass, like ass. They were called it like conflict for something by if it was like super cool to do it that way, or if, like a really popular guy named Tom done they delay Quoits Tom footed. Wherever you put your your foot in the rear That's the one you want to have the least attach too and yet is not superfluous either. You wanna have your board attached to your ankle, because if you fly off, you're gonna have to go swimming too far to get it sure, and it also can you know if it's attached to your foot near, haven't troubling grab holier surfboard in some of the good reason help save yourself yet so are you learn to serve Josh? I think one of those things that is easy to learn how but very very difficult the master in it takes tons of practice, and I would also want to give a shadow on the two weeks

a lot of that history from a site from an article written by a gun markets in the articles called from Polynesia with love good stuff. It is good and then the surfing handbook, dot com has this whole section called beginner surfing tips here, and they have everything you need to know their so friendly and like one of the one of the things that they can apply, Montrose like to go into this whole thing, knowing that you're not going to be good right away, the agree I fail- and it's like just trying to get trade in certainly, if he certainly so frustrated that you don't want to serve him. Where is he like? Take a break like its first, we find it searcher you dont get so uptight in. Yes, basically, don't come in like you're gonna, be a chip right away, takes tons of practice and allow the pact to start on land like practising the pop up, yeah added the opposite experience that you described, which was easy.

Do hard to master at a really tough time doing it at all. Over a year, dead and everyone. In my little group that had never done it like wheaten unless could stand up on the first day it was an oh yeah, yeah yeah, I think- and I mean like, if you just looking at them, FR in thinking about what you had to do right. That's not that much to it, it's like being able to do it mastering it to suffer me imagine anyone be for me to eventually the internet? So what is basically when I say it's kinda easy, there's just a few steps. Basically, you wanna swim out. Pedal on his stomach to arm the breakers and this is where the waves are starting to turn into whitecaps their breaking yet and

When you get to this line, where it, where is it where all the surfers hang out, what's it called a lineup? It's where all the surfers is hanging out waiting for the way from sucking philosophy and music. How to be the people who should be there. If you want to go in a curve because you don't want to get beat up annual avoid the waves and basically it will make it easier to peddle out there and its easier than I could beat up from getting in another servers way, So, when you get out of the line up- and you certainly catch away, you wanna be facing the shore and is a wave searched as well as its welcomes in starts to breaking. You wanted right on top of a right in front of it right and you paddling really fast trying to catch the wave as they say. Yes, I think that even in bold it is getting away. And the right as the right before the way certain

It raises certain break like maybe to your right or to your left. You do. It's called the pop up right, yeah, we d like a push up and then you pop your feet underneath you yet and now you're standing and you can apparently the wet weather. That is the process, and you can apparently like three on your knees and then get on your feet. Yeah in it can work, but apparently like you do learn to do that gives us a really bad habit. Is gonna. Keep you familiar surfing well right. So what you and is push up with your with your hands in and for your feelings, donating stayed up there in kind of a crouching position church and now your surfing aside, a sideways yet gushing position and that's it. That's others, yet my favorite part when I tried it with back in college and stuff, was when you sitting out there with the other deeds and their own. There's no surfing involve yeah when you're just likes it nerve. Your uncle bobbing up and down with the sea serpent

I think they were like they're alive. Yet, standing around talking just sitting down the other escape were called a dimple, but because of the young, the grip tape, eventually with just Kenneth formula patenting, but you actually right what's letting them know that any other target talking here talking shop with either thrashers? when you're going out. You mentioned here. You want to go on a curve and not like go there. Straight on it never done this in any, don't have anyone teaching you how it can be very straining because your paddle out and the way will bring you in the sure, yeah over and over and over and then eventually you're just gonna go the beach bar when you're surfboard. Looking call that but what you want to do is what is called the duck dive and that is as the in this is on a short born as the wave approaches before it's like Crest, and following on you, you just want to push down on the board and go through the wave.

On the other side, and if you do this right a couple times, then you'll be behind where the waves or breaking giving your I'll get to go. You Maneuvering yourself, out of the way of most of the force of the way and it's the deck data, think they caught the you actually role upside down. What's got the turtle role, on board, but a bit you conducted with long board? Maybe not I don't know But here with the turtle role, you roll underneath the born and pull the nose down. I yeah that's the turtle role. Yes, that sounds easier to rules and more fun and urban onboard tenant. So let's talk about waves, man This is the Zenith funding, because I, like you, the point- I know what I'm talking about- yeah the physics of way. So

there. You can serve without waves and, if you really want to serve mainly have to understand what you're dealing with like what you're writing. You know, Jack if you're going to shreds half pipe you'd, better understand the physics of wood so if you're gonna hit the bonds I pipeline and by the way you're talking about duck diving and all that, for these huge mavericks, like you're San Francisco at Princeton by the sea, the bonds I pipeline- must have these deeds and ladys are being told by like a jet ski because they're just to beg, you can't be like see that fifty four ravens gonna ducked I've. You will be the currency if that happens, yeah you get turned out, thereby like a personal water craft right, so we're just gonna cover what your average West Coast surfing waves of it So with your, if you're out to sea

when suddenly website, you're, probably gonna see some whitecaps right, which is like basically like froth justice water being bandied around by the wind, but there's Gonna, be little crest, that, for my and these crests give the wind more service area to work with and the sudden you have what is called a peak. Yes in this search, the travel away from the direction of the wind know who we're not hundreds. If I get a nice little breeze or something we're talking like hurricanes, typically to form a good sized wave by any wings could conceivably create a wave. Yes, so in this picture to travel away from them from the wind, it actually spend a little bit of its energy and it goes from this kind of choppy wave.

This nice rounded thing called the swell, doesn't look like there's much too near reason. It doesn't look like there's much too. It is because it actually really deep. Yet that point I should get a bunch of these swells lined up as they get closer and closer to shore and the they certainly make contact with land at the bottom, the ones in France to the slow a little bit, and I want to make certain catch up and sometimes they combine into large twelve, that's right and as these so yeah they get together, essentially going in the same direction and say: hey come on. Let's make it does make a big way threatened as called constructive interferences. First wave physics goes right, what's cause, if you look it away from the side, it looks like two slicker was cold transverse, wait like something like you're looking at an e g or something. Yet it's the wave link the trough and express our opinion.

But they're, moving from left to right or whatever left right, yeah, but really what a wave is doing is actually an orbital wave where all of this ocean is actually making a circle as it moves along the right lines. The molecules actually yeah, but if, but you couldn't, you can make it you can make an animation where you could trace the movement of the waiting to be like this is kind of big circle that goes from the back of the way to the crest into the trough and then back down again I read so that's that's away. Vanessa get closer to the the shore it starts to slow down and when, when it hits land the force of land or the move village,

when, in the force of the wave combined to push the wave upward above the water, surface, yeah and in front of the wave starts to slow before the back of the wave, which means you have away breaking because the back crash, over the front and if you have a really steep bit of land, have a really deep crash. It's gonna a barrel or hollow wave if the slope of the land that the wave runs into the swell runs into there is a lot more gradual you're gonna have to call a crumbling way that this kind of breaks, slowly and in in a kind of a nice gentle pay yeah, it's what happens when water meets land. So if you ve ever seen a wave, you know feed on the ocean. It means that there is some sort of shell right, there may not happen yeah, because a wave is about one point: six times its depth. The height of away this yeah right or its direct. Its depth is one point six times higher

Well, yeah, but only if you right in the six foot wave, which has a lot of power to it, that still only what lesson ten feet of water that you doing without there yet is, but I mean like this still pretty shallow and you can hit the bottom of your surfing. I think is the point he absolutely and you know that the date that paper. The land under the ocean makes a big difference and what can wait? You're gonna get. Obviously. So that's why the serving like really get serve spots in the world are super limited yeah like you. Can't man make this stuff. They ve tried in Dubai yeah, but come on flame, it's all mother, nature dude, so the better in the world are few and far between, especially if you're looking for the big giant that he certainly if you spots on earth that

encounter those right. So I wind obviously is a big difference, not just in the formation of the wave, but in how it blows onshore offshore. I what you're? Looking ideally as a gentle offshore wind blowing toward the wave. If your blowing some onshore, when coming from the ocean toward the beach it can be a little rougher to deal with as a surfer, yet else days with a gentle offshore wind and when the surfers here on the radio that get up early go out there at daybreak is the best time surf daybreak. Well, I'm initial different times, but yea or maybe that has something to do with tied with people's him a good work, but I see people and on the pc h overtime like super early morning and then in the evenings. This critical yet, but maybe it has something to do with the the best to the vision of servers the blow of work, if it that the best ways remember its well known guy, that I've seen it

summer school and fast times, Ozma hi, I'm familiar with surfing I'm so we're talking about what had, I think he has actually any surfing. Did they showed it to the top? really summer. School definitely had shot like establishing. Slowly surfing I dont know They showed any investments are either in the valley. There was in many ways, ok, but because of course, that was a server yeah, big well at the end, you know that was the great ending he rescued the Mick Jagger from drowning oh yeah, while serving that's where in the low interview a stew and what he did I've been on, the players are Birthday party. I know we want some sort of competition. Will the countess was saving Mick Jagger life? No, he s like a trophy yours, in the dream. Sick. We're ok,

we're talking about we're talking about the power of waves right. Did you know that a cubic metre, a cubic yard Basically a cubic metre of water, the thought much man we're talking like this. There was a tonne. It was a time it weighs two thousand two hundred pounds. So if you took a box that Dagon put water in it, it would weigh two thousand pounds. Yes, yes at four degrees celsius is very specific issues. You remember from the metric episode like they calibrate like that right, but ass. It weighs at metric time a cubic metre of water or ways a metric tonnes would like a gallon of milk dissuade like a couple of pounds. I don't know I looked it up there. I swear. I looked it up. And I actually double looked it up. I was like this. I thought the same thing seemed like a lot, but yes, always a lot of. Will

so when, as when they come crashing down on you, it's kind of a thing and their different kinds of wipeout, but apparently the worst kind of wipe out there, which I think Tracy described as falling off of your surfboard. He called going over the falls in its on one of those hollow barrel, waves, yeah right, just very, very powerful because they hit land really quaking embrace. Really quick and when you get caught in the lip that part words breaking on the top, it shifts you up and basically throws you right in front of the way that the tragedy of like the full force of the wage is doing this orbital wave right over your you, like in a washing machine on that point. So falling in falling off your board, wiping out is one danger. Yeah. We should probably talk about surfing dangers. I wanna alert people these things because, throughout their have you ever been caught up in in away like that

yeah, it's scary man like you, don't I always up well any feel completely helpless like nature, has got me and throwing around like a little rag doll- and I am completely helpless to do anything about it and then you at your six. It does not matter how you're and if you're six boy, that's really accurate subsides are dangerous and as one of the thing that is at play there. That is the water returning to the sea treating water can be a fast moving current tonight. You really for out to see before you know it. So they advise you voice her swim perpendicular, no parallel! Parallel get this too. To avoid the recurrent in particular to the shore away from this is how you pass out, so they a scary for the rip current, oh yeah, you can also

stuff underwater, like we censure for waves out there, that whatever its height is Times one point six that how deep the water is there. So you can very easily, especially in a heavyweight get thrown to the bottom, in get thrown on a coral reef yeah or hit by another board yeah, which brings us to etiquette surfing etiquette this, because it can be very dangerous to run in people and because you know really great. Sir spots are few farmers mean. That means that there is often a lot of people out there. Yet. So this there's kind of two informal rules of catching a wave of forgets. President right, I guess first one up or first one are closest to the the brake wreck. Ladies the way you and everybody else has to get out of your way the should end if they don't what happens

people if you're in a nicer area, people might say: hey bra, that's not to cool yourselves done or they might just drag you to the beach and kick the crap out of you and break your board and throw it in the back of your car and put you in that car that happens in one. Regardless of what each experience you have, the Publican call you could to highlight a cook, a cook, let somebody who is follow surfing added value and that you'll hear other words dear, but I'll bet kicks in their so, Are we at localism yeah? I think so. I read article wider surfers have gangs and it's a thing and it anything for a long time and most people think of surfers is like this. In. Spouting easygoing, philosophical beach deeds, A lot of them are like that, but lot of them are not surfing he's been tied to violence.

Territory for many many years, and that is because, like we said there, only so many surf spots in the world and when did so Let me get all excited to go tried out, you were taking the limited amount, of space and waves that exists for them, that Try in Dubai force and thereby had machine now you should think if you're taking a class or something they they now to go to a place where, teach classes and everyone else knows don't go anywhere near the classes, but so that's a good thing to do, but circling spin around decades and localism since the seventies, Concannon in some areas in the Buggy board was big reason. Why? Because the sudden. The thing was invented for all these kids go up and they can ride waves without any experience or technique or

Gill whatsoever and then another rules, they don't care and their parents don't care. His lungs are not their here on the beach. So thanks to the Buggy board out, the violence picked up and these and there are well established, surf gangs, even though you hear them call that the council's, like family yeah, the Wolf back in Hawaii, the north shore of why? Who then there's the family, but they can also be pretty violent Russell Crow. Did a narrated, a documentary called bra boys, let us thicker than water, about Australia's bra boys and they worse and tough dude since uniting sixties. Some of which have spent time in and out of jail. Britain brothers, in fact, having one of the average and brothers made the documentary ask them in others, protecting their area and something sacred to them. You can be a cook to be killed southern California in San Diego is law, Then I noted for local. They're right, yeah, I didn't know

the silver Strand Locals Ssl and Oxnard Shore locals away from San Diego. Now those are the pure rats in the eightys and Ninetys easier to some. The notorious surf gangs that you know they run into cops. Some people been beaten to death in two thousand zone in the higher surfer was The hawaiian server was killed in a fight in two thousand eight, so this happens, and if you go out the surface, do that don't be scared? You know like these people get hurt me, but definitely call to try and ingratiate yourself somewhat by bringing Maybe I can sum humble cookies are something out of the Vienna asked questions? There's probably a nice guy guy came did, which you should probably this and steer clear of the

Chile peppers run across them in a line up. You wanna get away his their bad. Do this far serve gangs? Go! Is that a real certain? Don't you remember in point break what what what they were like a surf gang there, like the rival, surf gang that where they really raised here in a movie yeah Canada yeah that was early on for them. There must have been there for many days. Yet without an eighty early nineties. Early night. It was maybe like, nay one. Ninety one any directed at was Catherine Bigelow as one of her first movie. I didn't know that movie ape you like. Finally, your taxes does anyone know Here's the deal buddy they're gonna, make it easier on. U H and our blockers filing your own taxes online with age and our block can be done super fast I say in a Jeff, you dare say, because it's true job

agent or block online guys. You three simple process and you can can future instantly, with the tax expert for unlimited help. When you go way, What is the Irish asking me absolutely agent, our black attacks prose, even screen share, so you can show them exactly where you're stuck. Perhaps to everybody and the best part- is you always know your price with age and our black no surprises no hidden fees. For a better deal? Better choose block go h- are block that come slash tax time. Today it get started its better with blood. So we should point out Tracy points out that surfing, He could not many sports of

and a musical genre and of thumb. Films. Genre like surfing, has, in others not a lot of science, about basketball outside of, I guess, grandmaster Flash and maybe run DMZ, but people are insights about football or croquet national croquet sucks. If they are therefore like this listen, I'm gonna jacket serve. Music was a huge thing on still has a lot of circles and, of course, the movies point break. What's your favorite using big Wednesday, no good movie heavy seen serve Nazis must die. I had not theirs get your visit. Is there actually serving in the earlier life fides on surfboards in here he was shooting one another reduces answer boards in big wednesdays, a classic blue. Russia is more recent one that covers the Ladys, and am I love them only by the way

then there's some great documentaries that the old in the summer movie, I was really great and then in the summer two was not bad, and then there's recently more recently, Stacy Profit made one called writing giants, which is often called step into liquid, which is really cool. Do ya! Think that's like number two or something like that, like the best, their relative movies endless summer, yet, while in the summer lights up a school, but that was like old school and today to have the technology to like inside the tube and your underwater, and it's like the foot as they get pretty amazing. Three me thank you. Go pro you anything else and wait for you to try it. That's the next thing in this package is for you to report back of your experience. Ok, I will give you a thing to get. You feel you have you spend a day or two you be able to get up and go like certain like me frankly in it. But I'm not shall hear my suit for its

what you're doing now you're standing on top of the plank of fiberglass it in writing water? You know anything. No, I'm sure it's not here. I already can feel my ankle banged up on board the balance, we get it's the fight, a boarding and announce a better balance. Surprisingly, myself, I can stand up unlike one leg, its balance you'll be ok, This report will be fine. I'm not I'm gonna go in there with an attitude suggested, but serve guide happened before the anonymous people gets all aggravated. If I can do something like that, you get agro from now. I had not really was the point at quit. Doing it. The frightened aggravated. Well, that's good! That's how we help at more quicker than I am Agora. You want to learn about surfing and only like pretty a man about surfing that word in the search bar housetop works that camp and I said, search pursued centralism.

Now we call this like museum. Yet when we talk about the dead man, still want to go. I was really hoping some lady would write and be like. I can actually get you in there now and it now, but I bet if we really push towards our personal whatsoever, Are you guys just got done? Listen you showing that mass arguments about museum that they should make a movie about it. I m had a flashback, listen to radio show by the same name here those in the early nineties. My local am radio. New station your old radio dramas Emily evening, I would soon- and occasionally when my favorites was the Black Museum, with looked it up, it was like museum. Was nineteen fifty one radio prime drama, they son relay cases from the files of Scotland Yard by Orson Welles was host a narrator for stories of horror and mystery XO

showed open with Orson Welles speaking from London, they ve been chimes and then the black Museum positively of death, here in the grindstone structure on the Thames which house Scotland Yard, in a warehouse of homicide where every day a woman shoe, tiny White Box robe all are touched by murder. I mean an Orson Welles to like him saying things: Richard, see, check right, saying something decided at the impact of an Orson Welles. It's not bad, but light does there, you guys maybe someday. Somebody will make a tv show that it were movie the internet, listen to the old episodes, fifty one of them and all so. That's awesome. Big fan, looking forward to seeing your tv show soon. That is Dan from San Diego, which I believe means whales. No.

What's San Diego mean, I mean Saints Diego in Spanish. I would not quote anchorman in ruin. This g rated podcast, if you have some, I guess additional information for something that we talked about it. If you can get us into the Black museum, we want you to get in touch with us. You can tweet to as at Sysk podcast. You can join us on Facebook, dot, com, stuff, you should know you can send an email to stuff cast a discovery, dot com or you can hang out with us online at our house step. You should know. That calls for more on this and thousands of other topics how stuff works out com brought. You buy Toyota, let's go places

dear young rockers applaud, cast coming of age story about finding a home in rock music and learning to flourish in your own weird way. It's also a series of letters of advice to my younger self ass. She navigates of hashish, adolescence seals or social inside each body, issues and relationships and discovers a transformative power during wrapper, comes from double Elvis productions is created and hosted by mutual citizen and executive produced by Jake Brennan of disgrace, land, listen to dear young rocker, on the irish radio, app apple pie costs or wherever you get your podcast.