Hey everybody! Welcome to the Saturday select episode. I am chuck your cue. for this weekend in our perfume works. Well, If you have less than an hour, we can explain it to you. This one goes back to There are nineteen, twenty fifteen. How perfume works right here right now,.

The welcome to stuff you should know a production of I heart, radio, the podcast I'm josh park with charles richard bryant and Jerry Jr's it'd be great if those were named jerry, Jerry Jr's, tony tony turned to my friend used to call them tony tonight on why the spelling

okay, breath of the last rooms and he with a little accident. Well, that was tony, but he didn't say Tony accent I wouldn't say tony too. Well, the point is it's ai? Why are the three letters or jury press record? Did you think we were going to be talking about tony tony tony? I never know what the heck we're going to talk about for the first thirty seconds. I would not have predicted that one I was going to tell the story, but I'm not going to know. What's that scent you're wearing it is l, did didn't chuck, musk, sculpture, sk in french, their means of water of chalk, musk gross, I'm wearing your car. No, are you really I think you'd be able to smell it. Well, yeah sure I never know, I don't want it like I'm very sensitive to making fun of people and what they choose to do. You know,

I'm not making fun of anybody know, but I didn't want to say to you. in cologne during your car, nor grows. I used to love jakarta or back when I was in like seventh eighth grade. I believe it man alive those are the cologne days. I looked it up and I was like what is true carnivore mean no newark black riser or is dzhokhar parent LE drew car or dakar is a name for a viking ship nice, so dre car has kind of come into french colloquially as like a big ship or yacht. So I think Ricardo are here's the fact that the podcast sadly means black yacht nice yup. That means you are very fined cause. All you see is white yachts. You ever seen a black yacht nope. That would be pretty slick,

it'd, be very hot. That's why they don't paint yachts black. I would imagine oh yeah, I guess so cause they sit out in the sun all day, and so I wore benetton colors. I never wore that. One and that smell today is still very evocative, because I have the bottle of hostile had had a easter at what he stirred in nineteen eighty nine everyone's in allowing you feel in the style damnedest shed it thou. I can't find it the hours after using you still had the bottle. I kissed her didn't. I can't find it somewhere where you have to know had it for a lot the longest time I dont think I still have it now and, as will see, cologne can go bad, but this was a dark drawer and it seemed it smells. aimed me. Yet it sounded like a perfume industry propaganda to keep you boy

It is no matter what you do to protect it. It's still going to go bad into like a these vikings are no good anymore. Exactly, don't believe that for a second, no, but definitely don't just assume that they've downgraded in potency and take like four right. I do think I didn't cologne and perfume could definitely go bad if not cared for correctly right. But if you care for it correctly, yeah yeah yeah, we should probably just go ahead and say: if you keep it out of the sunlight, yeah keep the artificial light to a minimum sure keep it in. It's original bottle cap yeah and supposedly it stays good for two years, yeah yeah. That's what I think is bs as long as you don't expose it to the outside air right keeping it in it's original bottle and the sunlight not saying they're breaking. It's molecular chains, yeah it. It's gonna be fine and stable. Yet I mean I had literally have proof,

cologne invited in them habited to come out on the record about that's great men. Are I this is a good article. I thought well a nice choice. Ere. I agree. I think perfume is surprised. really interesting, it's one of those things where you just take for granted- or you think, like. Oh that's, just further fashion glitterati type, sir, you no matter I avenue folks kind of thing. You dig in turn you like knows critical perfumes for everyone even if you don't wear it, it's still interesting to know about like, for example, the history. Did you read much of the history yeah? I saw em. You send me some pretty cool stuff that I'm and this isn't necessarily perfume, but I guess perfume is really anything that smells. Yes, you know small great yeah. We were generally talking perfume, meaning like a product that you go by you in it to change or enhance your sent right yet that, but

If you look around like everything, is perfumed unless it's specifically marketed as unscented or non perfumed yeah, but just about everything else has some sort of perfuming to it yeah, but it's got. It has to be a a a substance. That is what is the distinction? like a perfume and an odour, yeah yeah like a guess, the oder actually comes officer. The plant bright of perfume is when you go to that plans. who the oder out of it, put in a bottle, put it on your skin. If you don't you, you put it in a bottle yeah. I guess not rub those leaves all over you but, like I said back in the day, ancient priest you sent me the things that they burned incense initially to cover up stinky dead animal carcasses. Then there were,

echo fighting, which makes sense that the latin translation is through the smoke, so perfume means yet like it. You can smell it through the smoke of, I guess, he's burning dead animals or through the smoke you fill out better about sacrificing animals. Kids, you can't smell the death, The ancient egyptians very quickly so like originally, these were priests using perfumed cover of animal sacrifices. Right ancient egyptian said we got a better idea. Let's use the glands from those animals a tea set ourselves for love, it will put inner stinky parts yeah. Originally it was animal sacrifice and it went very quickly into sexuality and ever since then, the purpose of perfume has remained virtually unchanged. It is to stimulate sexuality in some form or fashion.

Yeah, especially men were in cologne here and what will get to some of those reasons in a bit, but that's good primer. I never really thought about that, but I guess you're right you're in it to smell more attractive, even enough on the friendship, tipp sure, didn't it I have to be sexual, why don't think? Well? It depends because some of the early ingredients that stick around until in some cases, the ninety nineties, and are still being used in. Other cases are firm. Basically, the sex glands the scent glance of animal yeah, and this article points like it's funny to think about the first person who saw a skunk and said You know what I'm going to her. open that anal gland in and rub some of that on me exactly or the mosque dear, that have the most dear get some of that. The beaver produces historian, the civic cat

which is a himalayan cat. Well, that is that's the skunky yeah there's like a dozen animals, they classify as civic cats and then ambergris yeah or amber gri. I don't, I can't remember, which way to pronounce it. Let's just say, as both are acceptable. Okay, agree to disagree amber cree. I can't remember anyway, that it's the whales stuff. Yes, so supposedly everybody, said, was well vomit when a whale eats a squid and it's beak gets kind of in it's stomach and it needs to dislodge it. It pew yeah, squid, beak, oh okay, I thought I think that beaks yeah, oh it's a beer it's probably the most disturbing part on any animal on the planet. The fact that a squid has a heart beat just like a bird is rather disturbing the it just keeps me up at night, because a squid is like

latinus and flimsy it's not specific hard beak, they can break bone well. I think it is supposed to that's wrong to me. so if a whale has that beacon, stomach stomacher eating a squid is to get rid of, it said the king. And wisdom was that it picked up this stuff and that's what ambergris, yet as the sperm whale specifically right, yeah, but but in this case Progress is like this, just like by owen puke in that kind of thing, but it floats on on the surface of the ocean and photo degree. It's in hardens and turns into this waxy substances actually flammable that can have its own seat that has long been and instilled in some cases used as a major ingredient in perfume right yeah. I think it's supposed to make perfume stick to your body more right. It's a fixity of idiotic, called

The weird thing is: is there recently finding out that it's possible that ambergris it comes out? the bottom end of the way: oh yeah, they don't plug at the mouth, sure they poop it out. They it's basically whale diarrhea that you're using in your perfume so consider this depending on the perfume and the fixatives it uses. it could be using anal glance from a beaver and diary. From a whale in order to make yourself smell, sexy yeah, what's insane chuck is that it actually works. Well sure, that's debatable. Depending on who you are, I guess I hate the smell of perfume, all perfumes, there's, not a single perfume set, even a component of a perfume that you fine clothes. I dont like perth, scented perfume for women,

specifically, is what I'm talking about as far as working sexually, and I know he does it- I dont even mean like sexually necessarily that, like a year worked up get hard earned the collar even just yet lax, Not pleasing tomato really know. Don't like it are. You do pretty extensive. Anything I mean like Emily, makes all sorts of soaps and stuff. Do you like any of those sense, those you're all natural, less the difference, most every perfumed product synthetic on the market. It depends for sure the cheaper ones definitely are, but not all of them are most I mean they're still plenty of that use like ambergris, what's more natural than whale diarrhoea, that's true. Anna not even the usa. We should point out, is illegal to use then perfumes in the? U s of a, but the The yes, but a european perfume has still

but now I'm very specifically averse to most sense, because we don't use chemical products as much as possible. So, like I don't use scented sprays. Scented deodorants, like the breeze to me as like them has disk one thing you can do to your home area fabric softer sheets henry detergent, like nothing, nothing with with sense. I hate it right, there's nothing to me worse than like going to a hotel and smelling scented sheets that have clearly been washed with some kind of perfume detergent. What, if it's more like something pleasant, though I mean like

is nothing I can understand why now there also has to be pleasant like this smells like lavender, and none of it does to you. It's just like this, a synthetic, so it feels bed to me in smells Badia I gotcha, but the the idea you just rattle off a bunch of I uses for perfume for perfume beyond actual perfume and that that's actually kind of an old concept. The woods long been considered these seat of Europe's perfume industry is a grass. I think, jerry does he in the south of france, and it's got this unusual microclimate where all these wonderful plants like jasmine in or His blossoms and lavender, and all this stuff can grow and the locals figured out number one.

they needed to grow the stuff, but also to extract it in different ways. You can extract the essential oils. You can extract, absolutely can extract concrete yeah, but what you are doing is extracting these odorant molecules from plant and using it to perfume of what they are. originally using it to perfume, I think, like the fourteen third thirteenth century were leather gloves. So remember, catherine domenici, oh yeah, she's thinking but why why she was given some senate gloves by the tanners of Us France, which was originally there that was their gig, was making leather goods, but they stunk like death. So, just like those ancient priests, the people of grosse said we need a perfume these. They came up and started this whole trend of perfumed leather gloves by sending a complimentary pair to catherine de medici, who love them and then all of a sudden bam grosse is not only

Can these are some other goods? It becomes the perfume capital of the world and stays that way for a very long time, because she essentially was the first celebrity sponsor of a product bright and she was in their copies of the local rag saying I loved the smell of my lavender leathers, exactly less critical story, and so that was the heart of it all then yeah and grass still makes not nearly as me as they used to, but they still produce tons of essential oils. Over a year of all these wonderful plants, nice yeah see I'm down with the essential oils, that's different right, but that stuff is frequently used in Peru. Dooms. I mean they may not be union like you're. In no time or anything like that? That's probably a synthetic sent, not probably tickets, absolutely synthetics, but there are still plenty of perfumes they do use

essential oils in there, as as small molecule sure, while the reason people they don't is because it's expensive right and alright. So let's talk a little bit about what perfume as the the stinky stuff that use an atomizer. If you're fancy to spray on your body, to smell, sexy, okay and a little bit about smell in general. I guess liquid perfume that we're talking about is basically just concoction have alcohol and water, and these smell molecules that basically, which are smelling, is evaporation. to the air and dumb they do point on the article, not everything you know. It's light the flow but not ever thing that's light enough to float. Has that's has a smell right in what are they point out carbon monoxide this than the common danger right? They can smell it. You might be Dian, that's. Why have the detectors in your home the f,

suddenly. You can't think right yet and there's no other reason why it's probably carbon monoxide leak in your house that right is now old, like it in around. You said check the battery on your carbon monoxide. Doktor. So the not only through some molecules not have a scent they're, just not odorants. Some odorants aren't smell by all people. Like apparently sandlewood natural sandal wood is the most commonly uncensored odorant. Yet the natural original the owed right yeah. So, even even if you are making a perfume or like that, you It may be making something that can't be smelled by a significant portion of the population yeah, which is a challenge and making perfume yeah and the whole cilantro thing of the post.

The way through a story about that, I know- we've talked about it before it's like ten percent of the population has a genetic marker that thinks it tastes or its taste and smell. Soapy yeah, and this article points out that what's going on, is not that there's some alteration of the smell or taste of cilantro yeah, but that there's a note to it missing, so that is incomplete. What people are sensing right and therefore they find it grows by. I saw another study that showed that thirty percent of odorant receptors are different from person to person. Take any two p bosnia, thirty percent of their odor or separate, was going to be just wildly different yeah, so it is. real challenge to major perfume. That is pleasing to enough people and, as a result, some people,

gone the opposite way in there just making exactly what they think is super cool. And if you like, it awesome if it smells good great, if not whatever right, but that's kind of counter to the main mode of thinking in the perfume industry, which is why audiences exactly sure has more people are gonna, buy it yet make more money, and if it's a really good one, it will be a classic that people do to develop like a brand loyalty two answer and by again and again and again year after year in number five yeah, which classic perfume it is, and it was the first soon to use synthetic ingredients. Did you know that I did not an apparently It was not a hit right out. The gate was created in the twenties for chanel

but it wasn't until Marilyn monroe in an interview in the mid fifty said that all she wears the better to drops of chanel number five, that all of a sudden it was like her forever, the forever perfume with so every guy bought it for his wife. I get here because it would make him think of me. in monroe, but it's just stay that way ever since, even even though the marilyn monroe stories been kind of lost mostly to popular culture, there's a documentary on coco chanel, I haven't seen yet supposed to be good. Oh ya, ya have to check it out. So perfume oil specifically is a super This is what we're talking about being like steamed repressed out of like a fruit or a plant or something it's super concentrated. So

it's only it's going to be in ninety eight per cent, alcohol and two percent water. So that's the solvent yeah and then you take the solvent and the amount of solvent. That's combined with perfume oil. You have different types of perfume yeah exactly so. Powerful, and you know it will say this on the bottle. You if you go to ever read the back of a perfume bottle, which I have it, but perfume p, R. F. U m is at least twenty five percent perfume oil l depart from fifteen to eighteen percent, oda, toilet or toilet water is ten. Said and the cologne is like three to five percent: its acts, body spray, It's like it's very light. Yeah, like body sprays, unless you're talking about like a just a straight up cologne, can also mean a man sent right, which is sometimes way more than five

percent yad. I think have said this before. When I lived in you arizona result in a post college. There were a lot to do to wear in cologne. Anna, I was like you guys are still wearing ANA came in. He and work alone has ike nope where's your curve condemn yeah. This is very strange thing to me because of this. I don't see a lot of guys that were cologne any more. Oh, it's definitely fallen away again, maybe I'm in the traveling in the wrong. circles, while in america it was, it was cool at first It antenna fell away and then, and thanks to marilyn monroe and chanel, it kind of came back big time, yeah and, and then it kind of. peaked, I think in the nineties for men, especially and but it's still going strong like one or one armani g, o d armani. I think, can't remember what it's called

it made like several hundred million dollars in the no two thousand six Is that one of the unis excellent nobody's ferment near? You have always thought that whole new? What seems knew the unisex cologne? I said it was interesting while a reunited aligned, something for both men and women ripe, that's a throwback actually, Originally there were no gender differences among our fumes, especially in france, The threat of core men like to smell like lie like as will be right in that you know nothing wrong with that you're. The idea that lie like is a feminine scent is new in social construct. Here you know or the idea that cedars a manly sent that right a new and social contract to em, very american as well sure so, becomes too categorizing like we're talking about their our terms that are used in the big, but it's not like,

there's any rule about it? It just basically how people have grown to talk about perfume right there in the business of perfume, But generally there are these categorizations floral, that's a no brainer fruity! That's a no brainer, a green that might be grassy or leafy. I like stuff, like that yeah I, like the olive oils that tastes like grass, you ever had those. Ah yeah man has good, ah or wheatgrass shot. That is not good ooh! I love it! The you don't like it now Oh man, I love it. It's like drinking down some grass clippings. I I think I would rather drink grass clippings than wheatgrass really well. It isn't grass clippings actually like fescue or something sure we'll take a fescue shot. Then I will An herbaceous like herbs, a woody liquid, amber tree resin thought that was interesting

every time. I want to say an animal like, I want to say in a maniac for some reason: bodily smells that's gross well, that's like from that's musk near the bodily smell well, but then there's mosque as its own category. Two. Mr, so singular right, but I mean like em there's also supposedly also, I guess either. I don't know if it's a type of muscular and malik or whatever, but fecal is another thing to near cover klein's obsession is among the perfume industry, well known as a very famous physically perfume yeah yeah, which one obsession obsession air, like a hugely selling, very popular perfume, being warned by people if you walk past someone in the perfume industry, they are be like there's some real fecal notes to that. Well, they said in this. The top notes they say sometimes can be

something really nasty just to attract you. Don't own attract means, but I guess get your attention, maybe, but that aware off the quickest rights now at last on your body right, which will give them that insect limb. just finished a celestial. Ok, sir. You have the oriental and its proper visa you're an amber and spice and then a few other ones are categorized by the actual molecules like fanatic might spend like tar or electronic creamy lected lactose, obviously bread or alba hiding which is fatty. So those are the main categories and we will get a little bit more into that chemistry that we teach you a threat that's

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essential oils or synthetic versions of those oils and fix, it is or synthetic versions of fix it, so it might the essential oils lavender some muskrat, anal gland, and all of it is most of the other stuff it's laughing. But it's true and then bam. You got a perfume right there yeah, but the reason why it's so dissolved and why so much of it is alcohol is because the way that perfumes are designed is so that the different types of molecules when they interact with the alcohol in the alcohol evaporates will evaporate in a certain progression of time yeah. I thought this is the most interesting part of this The thing that alcohol actually makes it possible to separate those notes right in likened this article to hearing all the parts of a symphony at once, like a lot of. Please things all at one time is not necessarily good thing know, and that's what you get. If you stuck your face in a one tonne barrel of perfume oil yeah, you might say

and this is sweet, but you wouldn't pick up on the subtle awry subtleties of those odors yeah exactly, but what alcohol does is it takes that concept, form it not only diluted, but it again spreads it out temporarily. So when you first put it on you put on a little perfume, perfumer tour, The immediate notes, the top notes or what smell immediately bright and they go from anywhere like immediate, too may be a few minutes, usually you're. The first as your smell and the first one to leave your body exactly that's the top notes and a perfume is designed so that we as each set of notes and their three there's top heart and base notes, and as

twin is leaving the next one is starting up. So you have this. This basically flowing transition at a comparing it to a symphony is so apt sure, because it's just like this kind of flowing melody of sense that work together by I guess, dissolving evaporating. Yeah at a certain time. At a certain rate yeah and like we said before the break, there are a lot of times. They will put something unpleasant in that first top note, And- and I guess it will just get your attention in the store values like ooh, so fecal he hadn or like, or was it an anchor man o the mosque? There is a problem

moscow, oh that one, the human urine or ST paul ripa jack alone, yeah yeah. I can't remember the exact line, but, like seventy percent of the time, it works all the time and what was it? Panther yeah his pants or something man that was a funny movie, and then you ve got your heart nuts next right yeah and want you long day. Last may again anywhere and last food, starting in two minutes to about an hour of what I saw. Those are gonna be convened. An entirely different, it depends, is we'll see what you're trying to get across right, but you could do woody top notes with a vanilla based air part, note sure soda from wood to vanilla to lemon citrus base, no right sure it or you could do it complete the opposite. You can just mix and match the acreage voice. It depend right

it depends on the day, the type of molecule you use and as you're making synthetic odorants yeah you can make it a synthetic odor. That's gonna stay! round as a base. No, even though, if you had an essential oil of that bremen, it would be just a top. Nokias is gonna, go away, so quick Yeah and his will see later when you, when it's when you're making these perfumes it's a real science of, then a balancing act of getting exactly what they want, because These smells, as he said, are coming and going in it is sort of like composing a symphony. Again again, So the base note, that's the one. This stick around the long. It's the right right and come out latest yeah. It can come out starting usually about thirty it's after you put it on and could stick around for a day if you're, not careful and in find something: where is the proof? No perfume is gonna smell same on any two people exactly right, now:

Please! It's not going to smell the same on any two people. It's going to smell different to two people right right, back again. Thirty percent of our odor receptors are different and in every single person, plus also in odor, and can activate different kinds of receptors henning on the person and then, lastly, that person is going to encode it differently. Yeah, because scent is. It is definitely it's own thing. As far as our senses go and it's the only sense that directly hard wired to the brain, so the odorant receptors go straight to the brain yet doesn't syn to a nerve cell, that's nearby first, exactly so, it's like harvests are sent us, Our sense of smell is hardwired to our brain, so it evokes some serious reaction irving, and there is also a hypothesis

is that our brain, the lobes of our brain, evolved from olfactory buds that that's what they started out as well, since and that it just grew and grew and grew, and that we were all like brainstem and olfactory buds, and then we in the brain grew from that which would be like hats off to the sense of smell, because that's what started it all interesting, but there's there's! The point is: is that our sense of smell? Is it's a big deal and but it's different in each of us and when you factor in our body, chemistry or skin, sure, that's when it's it's. It genuinely does smell differently on different people, while I would think it has to because everyone has a natural and scent, I think, just as a person that's different from one another

exactly so when you combine it yeah, it's gotta make a different thing. You know it's like if I smell like a cherry pie in which you do throw some cool whip on me, which I would gross. I wouldn't do anything I just throw cooler. You know in the form of a part of the face. Why not at all gag here? But when you're on the perfume. This is this is come here on this point. There are ways to do it I believe that will get the proper I get that get the most out of your perfume, like you, shouldn't put it in the rabbit in your skin real hard yeah. You don't want to like heat it up right away or anything like that now, because you and you break the chains of the top notes and you wear them out before your finger even comes away from your skin yeah but like a rabbit unlikely. Yes, your things just like the obeyed, debit behind the ear, maybe near or have seen the other lady move to

to do it on the risks and may be rubbed that together a little bit and then my magic trick was to axe whenever I liked that the minutes on colors but I'll even back then didn't wanna be super coloni ma. So you know I did the dealer spray near than like what through it. You know, that's even I think mentioned in this article is as a method the editor method. I was really on awesome. Sixteen think even rubbing her wrists There are, though, early now that is, if you don't you dont, want to generate. He will in one of the reasons why people pay behind their ears. or on their wrists stinky behind your ears for one, that's one. You can also smell yourself right there, oh yeah, but if you put your fingers behind your ears

and then put a a I dunno on your head or something you'll see that behind your ears is warm yeah. Sure on your wrists is warm. These are pulse points right, so your hot blood is close to the surface of your skin. So then that heat will start to break up the alcohol will make it evaporate and will hence make those different notes come out nice. That's all! if you need any friction, is too much. He right said you say no on the wrist rob no rest. Rum! Ok, I mean it. want to waste your money and just get heart base notes and no top notes go for it our joshua. So let's say I thought this is pretty interesting to actually yeah? Let's say you want to large launch Josh's, you work for polo and you just you wanna do Josh's you're in there perfume department- and you say guys- this can be a trust me on this one me top seller,

so you gonna polo your bosses and they separate joshua. What we need here is a brief in the brief it's gonna, outline cause. You know again, you can't say this is a perfume everyone's gonna love cause keziah like there is no such thing. So right up. A brief. Tell me who was gonna love it who's gonna, appeal to What do you want it to smell like yeah? What do you want this to say? Even so Tom ford launched one, it became very successful, called black orchid, and he said I want this to smell like a man's crotch That was one. Can I give you another brief pleas for pure poison from D or the brief included? What is it like to have something soft and hard at the same time Oh, I think we all know that our eye and then here's another one. I don't know what this almost for better viagra upon her so yeah. I don't know which, when this is but one brief

described what they were after as give us the scent of a war clad floating in a fresh spring sky. Over sicily, raining attaining m raindrops on a woman with emerald eyes, It's what somebody wrote down when they were trying to describe what scent they wanted. Yeah, I mean that's. Those are legit briefs, that's that's how you're supposed to do it describe not just I the specific sense that you want. But what do you want it to say generally is probably more something like you know, classy or a you know, prosperous or something like that. Fecal vehicle and then you want to write out what or how you're going to sell it like what form it's going to take, and you also want to have a marketing plan like I think we could sell this in the in south america for the next. Like five years, they're gonna go crazy for exactly

so then, after that it's gonna go to a chemist and it's gonna get mail to what are called fragrance houses. Well polo that make it themselves now come up with a themselves at us and the chemist is employed by the fao. Prince houses, and they send this brief out to a bunch of different fragrant houses and in basically started competition LEO who's gonna land. This account better. Yet what we I see, what you can do so this fragrance ass, they they do a couple of things. They have the perfume Two. They actually are the chemist to come up with the formula, the other guy. Well the sense in their head and ain't. No like oh, I know exactly what smells like a woman with emerald eyes, your super smelters. I would imagine yeah. Oh yeah, oh yeah, you know yeah, there's an odor tester job out there. That's supposed to be great. I dunno. If I decide on that, oh yeah, you have to have like have just a naturally wonderful nose. My nose is not naturally wonderful. It has to make like a curly, These fragrances also have they don't just write the formulas.

Also have the the stuff in stock, all the different ingredients in warehouses, or they It will work with another company who has it if they're like we don't have, and you know, papaya oda papaya. We need to work with a company who does alright. They will sub that out and they have these chemist that actually work with thumb, gas chrome. I prefer mass spectrometry, which we talked about in somethin care. Remember what it was. This can be used for other things basically analyzes odorant molecules yet to say the ears, here's what it's made up in here, so you can make it synthetic version of it exactly for cheaper right exactly so, then you have those people, those a chemist, analysis. analysts yeah and then you also have synthetic chemist who say who take the redoubt from the guests, chrome, chrome, integrity and say I can build this, and then they build the simple big molecules exactly in all these mine blowing. It is my bugger all of these.

People are employed by the the fragrance houses that's right. One thing that they do we did talk earlier about. You know how they have the stuff in stock allotted time. It can be the actual oils from pressing it. and steaming it by There is another headlong happily there's another cool thing they have, though, called head space and as when they want as an odour, our fragrance they wall. They will put like an avocado in a jar and suck out the error rate every hour or constant, for hours right and they they use gas autocracy to analyze the and analyze that area, and then somebody goes and builds that right and that's what's called the head space. The head is basically a synthetic version of a an existing natural sent that somebody trademarks and then all of a sudden it becomes part of the perfume

trees. Repertoire yeah, I mean that's the space in the jar. That's the literal head space that is is got the oder. There's a dude name, Christopher brodie. and he started a company called the meter in their known for making like really weird perfumes layer, birthday, cake, baseball, mitt, baby aspirin. It's weird stuff like that, the s. But what's need? Is they nail it Yeah and one of the ways they nail it is by using by making headspace is one of the first ones they did was called soaked earth. He took some dirt from his parents, farm yeah, put it in a bag and took it to new york and through it on the table and said I want this. Nice and they analyzed it and by god they came up with dirt the smell of service civic to his region. The right yeah know, I think, pennsylvania interesting I guess here we can briefly mention that knock off clones and perfumes,

is a very common thing because your copyright. I mean you can tweak the formula slightly and it's totally legal. You know to to sell that essentially the same thing right, that's just oh, so slightly different under a different name: brett, it's like the same thing as designer drugs, except with perfumes yeah. Remember that The gas station, if you love, if you like giorgio you'll, love what Look, I asked her what was the knock off name for georgia georgie, but there is like a whole generic rip. Line called if you like blank your love, a blank hilarious, so check you take all this stuff. You take your head space, you take your existing head space You take your essential oils and you put him altogether to create that emerald. I woman, who has titanium raindrops raining on. in sicily on a spring day yeah. Well, you do anywhere from do a hundred of them. Each fragrance house does yeah there.

They send them to their odor testers and the oder. Tester goes no, no, no, this one's, maybe no! No! I like this one. Yet, no, no, maybe again, yes, and then now and then polo at this point has not smelled any josh and as yet. No this is while they're trying to weed out the gunk because they don't want to waste polos time right. You know they don't want to send him. Four hundred Josh's exactly know they want to send em like wine may be too, and they do. Sir. so will then get it say the second one. But it's a lie. strong on this one said so don't go back again, and that is just process. Basically, maybe they nail on the first time, probably not, but probably not its back and forth. Basically, its is like working with an editor and though swappin ingredients in though you know like we said earlier to science basic, We have the right combination in the right order of evaporation. Levies.

Super interesting: they put it through product testing, of course, and to see what people think of it cause they're, not just going to launch it out of the blue. They want it to, like. You, said appeal to either the right demographic or the the most people possible right so the one that polo decides that is josh justness yeah they when that perfume house winds, and so they get a contract to produce. x, number of tonnes or gallons of this particular perfume well of the of the the perfume oil. Yet exactly undiluted stuff, yeah polo actually produces. They take that and produce the perfume right. They add the solvent church to produce the perfume Odor Twa led the oda clown all that stuff in the different concentrations. They will probably also use it, maybe like deodorant body lotion, all that stuff, but deliveryman like one tonne drums of

a few that you don't want to smell until it's been diluted, attract, then all of a sudden Josh's is released into the world lead willy and becomes the number one selling cologne of all time well an poe, but never knows the exact concoction that makes Josh's either, which I thought was super interesting right. It's literally the perfume, her nose, this'll secret is gonna, actually right. So after this we're gonna talk a little bit about the science of sent whether or not it something that we born with her, that we learn mary sue, chuck united people where perfume,

ask ok, there's a lady name. Rachel hurts from brown university? She wrote a book called the scent of design recalling discovering are enigmatic sense of smell and she postulates that depending old you are and what gender you are. You have your different reasons that a young men do it to attract women, so I did it aldermen do it out of gratitude to the women who gave it to him. Yeah honey. You smell nice with this on so sure, our dear right. Ye women are depending on how old you are in the twenties you're more affected by or I guess, inspired by you friends in the media beyond, say sure she has her and perfume yeah. You know who is like a surprise, runaway smash. It right now is sir just Kerr parker. That in surprise me, eight does a little bit, I'm surprised me like a thousand to like it is

top seller right now, she's, like a goddess to a certain age group of women, though yeah like a still, I guess, you're right but even still you'd. Think like me, I don't know, maybe the rain, the perfume we'll has yet but could be an awesome ceiling. Perfume, never smell that. I was a surprise. Bulgaria. You know you like beyond, say: dear dieter like these. Are this. Unless you want to have it yet up selling they have these top selling like colonial surges parker. Just I just Think of her, like that. You don't like her she's great yogurt,

I don't think of her as that and I'm happy for her success, yeah she's iconic to a certain demographic yeah and not to me, but she's she's, an icon too. You know she's an icon to Emily. I think she was a big fan of that show and women in their thirties. They say, follow no particular pattern. There's dunno what they're doing they don't know what's going on, yet they just like what they like, I think, is what that means. Well by the time they're. Forty say, that's simply because they like it like. I dislike the way the smells and I'm forty, although I'm going to just wear it, I see I don't care what my husband thinks at this point or what my friends think at this point right and in their sixties they say women think of other people's wishes, like their friends or loved ones, say they like the way it smells right, which is really nice, then, and then bought a bum people choose perfumes, apparently that their mother or are in the same sent family

were able either knowingly or not, but probably knowingly, because there's an associate of learning theory of smell the usa, before the break. We're gonna turn about whether in us I was learned or for born with it the idea that smells learned is called the associated learning hypothesis that has learned yeah like we come to like smells based on social constructs, based on experience there supposedly ever It's that smell learning begins the womb, even and odor molecules can be passed along from mother to child and that this stuff you're exposed to in the womb. You can show preference for later on down the road. Yeah rachel hurts as a member of that camp game. By the way I want to give a shudder. Rachel, her wrote a chapter food in the book. neurobiology of sensation and reward, which is a gas in general. Right by she wrote chapter, seventeen perfume is the title of it and

so on the nih website, the n c b I website to search for that. No come up. The whole chapters out therein is really interesting and exhausting, but she is one The ones whose like this is a learned behaviour and lays out some really great evidence for year, one The point is that the baby's basically dont think anything smells bad or good right now they know this. I guess why things under babies faces, it was exactly as they make, including poop why are you never never see the baby? no yeah like I'll I'll wallow in poop. I don't care, I'm a baby cherry. I don't mind the smell You refer to write a baby's face, no reaction. They just a blanket nothing a couple times their delighted, while plus also other studies of adults. I'm a babies have shown that the same smell can be preferred or disliked, invest

similar groups here in the uk, the smell of winter green. In a study after world war, two was found to be just generally disliked year in the EU where's, like a decade later, the smell of winner. Green was found to be generally preferred in the. U s winter. Green is used for like candy and gum and his associates with positive stuffed her in the u k winner. it was used during world war, two for medicines I've never used in the field. So this association for battle war, maiming heart disease So that's what winner green is the people in the uk or is in the? U s the exact same smell is pleasant bright and you know I mean it's not like the americans and the british are the exact same people right, but there the same cohort either. A similar cohort and they showed leg opposite preferences, which is really great evidence for associate of learning hypothesis. yeah, and it is also a reason why, in the early two, thousands

U s. Army was not able to come up with a stink bomb that was universally upsetting to people's noses yeah across culture. yeah. They contracted out the monell chemical senses center in philly and they tried to curate a universal stink bomb smell and they said you know, because of cultural, specific products and things we had to avoid anything like food related, even if we think it really stinks some other culture might like it. Exactly so they had to basically ghetto they focused on stuff, with biological origins like vomit and human waste, and burnt hair and eyes. they made synthetic versions of all these and got it people in philly and put him in a hood and introduced Isn't that where people I know, I thought it was funny that was philly though they're, probably like it's not so bad

and introduced. They slowly infused it and they said people thought it was the worst thing that ever smell their heads would jerk back. They would contort with revulsion and then basically just try and hold their breath as long as possible or take little shallow breaths sounds like a great stink bomb to unleash on people in fellas. Here at least yeah, but they can. Basically, they can come up with anything that was universally hated it. So you remember: the air force also tried to come up with a gay bomb. They use like some sort of perfume turn like enemy combatants in the latest gay lovers. So silly it's a shame ok. Distinct bomb is actually really like. It's great idea: you know it doesn't hurt anyone there's. No, it's not like a chemical like you know what he could. but that the spread and irritant yes

it didn't in any way it just stinks and it would keep people out of a sensitive area if they didn't want 'em there will chemical and irritation is a sensation that your nose experiences along with odors technical think bomb like pepper spray is distinct bomb, oh yeah yeah, but it has like an actual physical effect on your skin here, which is think bomb wouldn't, but The school of thought, though, is that it's you know comes via evolution base. glee yeah that it's a neat yeah, which this kind of make sense that they both make sense to me. I think it might be a mixture of both, but what's his name, gilbert or hilbert hilbert one of the two. So if you're in the gilbert camp, though you're going to you're going to go with the evolution, because he points out that and why

we were evolving. You know apples smell good, because your meant to eat them in your meant to spread the seed, so that smell is associated with living and living well right by eating fruits income. Firstly, the smell of poop environment neuron, which convey disease and, syria and all the stuff you're not supposed to be with under innate hypothesis. It would be that's why we avoid those, because we want to avoid the the substances that carry those of noxious mouse makes sense. Oh, it totally makes sense. I just think to me the evidence is more there for associative learning yeah. I think I think it can be both. I don't think it has to be mutually exclusive. yeah, and I think it can be overridden by the by the learning as well. Whatever innate things we have,

then I remember we did a bit on a study years ago about people looking for their mates according to having a different immune system which would in turn make their children immune to more possible things yet more robust immunity in the year is you take immunity, ay and immunity being gale, you gotta immunity, see which is the best of a and b right. So this is as a whole or idea of why or how people select maids is based on that which has sent based rise. That's what they think you're an apparently it's. This is evidenced by study after We have to study that finds consistently their women rate, a man sent as the number one factor in attract this year, more than his appearance, more than wealth, more than anything else scent is.

perennially the number one most important thing. They think that it's possible that the reason why is because our senses are attuned or scent is attune so that we can sniff out somebody with a different immune system, so we can reproduce more robust kits. The problem is, if you factor in cologne, what you're doing is deceiving that natural dry air and all of a sudden you're going to have kids with like zero immune system because I was wearing cologne yeah. That makes total sense. You want to confuse your potential mating made it's a pretty good argument against one: hello, yes and then there is the issue. Of course, the whole does the stuff work anyway, as far as being a sexual attracted right and there's, there's zero scientific proof that there is any kind of effort, deasey asset asset for deasey act, it

compound the you concoct that will literally draw someone to you sexually. as much as they've tried and tried to advertise that subtly or not so subtly, and we are not pigs who apparently do have mating pheromones that actually that way they have something called a accessory olfactory system, and pigs, they have something in their nose called the of amr or nasal organ, which is specifically specialised to pick up on these molecules, and we don't have them as humans. We don't have the curly either or they say we may have him, but it just doesn't work on an issue which is which is the case. Who knows it maybe we'd tissues are normal olfactory senses and it's not pheromones is just smells vienna. Or you know they say maybe it'll make you think that you're more sexually attracted so that'll, make you more confident, exact and thus make you more sexually attract the right and

One more thing I mentioned giorgio Georgia was a huge hugely popular. Maybe the number one cent of the nineteen eighties and it was famously banned from some restaurants of because it says thinking yes, while because some restaurants if you got a couple of people wearing giorgio in here, it's going to overpower the smell of the food and the taste of the food, so they banned giorgio, which all it did was accelerate sales. While there are some people in this building that I wish would be banned from our elevators, I almost never run into that. Any more boy I have smelled some stuff that they're not even on in the elevator car to fecal, and I step in I'm like whoa. Is it like obsession now? It's usually like super perfumery, lady stuff, oh gotcha, yeah. You anything else. No, I mean there's plenty more, but you get so much time.

If you want to know more about perfume, you can type that word in the search bar house of works. Tat comments, insisted search bar sophie listener, male threat, I call this a little nostradamus bit from a canadian. I hate guys that like say how great first of all that you make my hour long commutes to work every morning, so thanks, it's a pleasure to listen to the show, especially on nostradamus, a thought. It give you another example of what he supposedly said quote from the calm morning. The end will come when of the dancing horse. The number of circles will be nine from nostradamus fifteen o three she's arguments circus. She says it was said that nostradamus predicted in the world and was explained as follows: a korea is the calm morning, country sigh dancing as in doing, though dancing horse is gang m style. On December,

when he first that song reached one million views on youtube, nine zeros. In summary, people were claiming that, as dramas his prediction was, the end of the world would be on December twenty first, so that's it guys, keep on doing what you do. You do a great job and are always a pleasure and oh, the sound effects are awesome. Kudos to jerry way to go. Jerry julia k in toronto. Ontario, canada, hey! We love toronto. Ok, Tirana! Right! That's right! We love Well, see will want to hear from you. Let us know by your perfume preference, deacon tweet us your face perfume of all time or your most hated perfume of all time church at s. Why asked pike S? You can. Let us know on facebook, dot, com slush that we should know you can send us an email to stuff podcast, the house, the first I come and as always join us in our home on the web stuff. You should know dot com, stuff you should know is the production of. I hurt radio for more power,

my heart radio visit that I hurt radioactive apple had passed, wherever you listen to your favorite, shows today will wrap up with three things you should know about plan be one step, one plan: he is emergency contraception, a back up for regular birth control, you take, if you have unprotected sex to it, helps prevent pregnancy before it starts. No, egg, no fertilisation, no pregnancy, three it's over global at major retailers from target to walmart walgreens to see vs find it yourself in family planning I'll or by an online and pick up install same day no proscription or idee required plan b. You ve got this visit plan. One step dot. Com uses directed